# Used Car Buying Checklist > Your checklist for buying a second hand car: what to check, what a problem looks like, and when to walk away. Print it as a used car shopping checklist for each viewing, or tick it off on your phone at the car. Last updated: 4 November 2026. Web page: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/australian-used-car-inspection-checklist. Printable PDF: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/australian-used-car-inspection-checklist.pdf. ## How to Inspect a Used Car: What Matters Most The checks that matter most on any used car are a PPSR search for money owing and stolen or written-off status, signs of crash repair or flood damage, how the engine behaves from a cold start, and a test drive that covers the gearbox, brakes and steering. ### Money Owing, Stolen or Written Off: The PPSR Check A car can look perfect and still carry someone else's debt. If the seller still owes money on it, the lender can repossess it from you. The PPSR, the government's Personal Property Securities Register, shows whether there's money owing on a car, and with it whether it's been reported stolen or written off. Get the VIN from the seller before you travel, and run your own PPSR search rather than trusting one the seller shows you. At the viewing, check that the VIN on the rego papers, the VIN plate and the number stamped on the car all match your certificate. If the PPSR shows money owing, don't hand over any money until it's paid off and the search comes back clear. A stolen or written-off result is a reason to walk away. ### Signs of Crash Repair or Flood Damage A crash or a flood can leave damage that's hard to see and expensive to fix. A badly repaired crash can affect how the car protects you in another one, and flood water gets into the wiring, causing electrical faults that show up months later. For crash repair, look along each side in daylight for uneven gaps between panels, colour that doesn't quite match, and paint on rubber seals or trim. Underneath, look for bent metal, fresh welds or new black coating in just one spot. For flood damage, smell for mustiness, and look for damp carpet, silt under the seats or in the seatbelt tracks, rusty seat bolts and water inside the light lenses. A neat repair with paperwork from a reputable workshop can be fine. Signs of a hidden or poor repair, or any sign of flooding, are a reason to have a mechanic check the car or walk away. ### How the Engine Behaves From Cold Many engine faults only show in the first seconds after a cold start, before the oil has spread and the parts have warmed up. A seller who runs the car before you arrive can hide them, deliberately or not. Ask for the engine to be cold when you arrive, and touch the bonnet first: if it's warm, it's been run. Watch and listen as it starts. It should start easily and settle to a smooth idle. A rattle in the first few seconds, blue smoke (burning oil) or white smoke that won't clear (often coolant) are all warning signs. If the engine is already warm, ask to come back another time, or have a mechanic check it before you buy. ### A Test Drive That Covers the Gearbox, Brakes and Steering A short loop around the block won't show much. Gearbox, brake and steering problems are among the most expensive or dangerous to miss, and they often only show at higher speeds, on rough roads or under hard braking. Drive for at least 20 minutes, on a mix of roads. With an automatic, the changes should be smooth and the revs shouldn't rise without the car speeding up; with a manual, there should be no grinding. Brake firmly once when it's safe: the car should stop straight with no pulling, pulsing or grinding. The steering should run straight, with no clicking on tight turns or wobble at speed. Afterwards, leave the engine running and check for new drips, steam, hot smells or a fan that never stops. Anything you're unsure about is worth a mechanic's opinion before you buy. ## The Checklist, Item by Item Tick it if it's fine. Cross it if it isn't, and note what you found so you can price it into your offer. - Safety critical: Affects how safely it drives or protects you in a crash. Best to have a mechanic check it before you buy. - Negotiate: Costs money to fix, from wear to major repairs. Use it as negotiation leverage. ### Exterior - [ ] **Rust bubbling.** Check wheel arches, sills, door bottoms, the boot lip and around the windscreen for rust bubbling under the paint. Bubbling paint often hides rust that's worse underneath than it looks. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Windscreen.** Look across the windscreen for chips or cracks, especially in the driver's line of sight. A crack in the driver's view can fail a roadworthy inspection. (Negotiate) - [ ] **All lights work.** Turn on headlights, indicators, brake, reverse and fog lights and walk around to confirm each one works. Water or silt inside a light lens can point to flood damage. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Panel gaps.** Sight down each side of the car for even panel gaps and a matching paint colour all round. Paint found on rubber seals or trim usually means a respray after a crash. (Negotiate) ### Under the Bonnet - [ ] **Engine oil.** Pull the dipstick with the engine off: the oil should sit between the marks and look amber to brown, not gritty or smelling of fuel. Diesel oil darkens fast. A milky residue under the oil cap can mean a blown head gasket. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Coolant.** Check the coolant in the see-through overflow tank sits at the marked level and looks clean, in a clear green, pink, orange or blue. Rusty brown or oily coolant means trouble brewing in the cooling system. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Brake fluid.** Look through the side of the brake fluid reservoir without opening it: the level should sit between the marks, and the fluid should be clear to light amber. Dark fluid is overdue for a change; a low level can mean worn pads or a leak. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Power steering fluid.** If there's a power steering reservoir, check the fluid sits at the mark and looks clear or red. Many newer cars have electric steering and no reservoir. Dark, burnt-smelling or low fluid points to a leak or a tired pump. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Automatic gearbox fluid.** Automatic: many gearboxes are sealed, so skip this if there's no second dipstick. If there is one, ask the seller to show you; the fluid should be red or pink and smell clean. Brown or burnt-smelling fluid can mean the gearbox has been overheating. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Drive belts.** Look at visible belts and hoses for cracks or fraying, and squeeze hoses to feel they're firm, not swollen. A swollen or soft hose can burst without warning. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Electric or hybrid.** Hybrid or electric: skip the oil checks, check the 12V battery and coolant, and look for damaged pins in the charging port. Ask for a battery health report or the range shown on a full charge. (Negotiate) ### Underbody - [ ] **Tyre tread.** Check tread depth on all four tyres is well above the wear bars in the grooves. Wear on one edge only points to wheels that are out of alignment. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Serious rust.** Look underneath at the frame, floor and around the suspension mounts for serious rust, not just surface flaking. Structural rust can mean the car is unsafe no matter how good it drives. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Crash repairs.** Look underneath for bent or crumpled metal, fresh welds, or a patch of new black coating in just one spot. Repairs limited to one small area usually mean a past crash. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Suspension.** Push down hard on each corner of the car; it should bounce back once and settle without continuing to bounce. Oily marks on a shock absorber mean it's leaking and due for replacement. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Off-road use.** On a 4WD, ute or tow car, look for scraped underbody guards, sand or salt packed in gaps, and a well-used towbar. Heavy off-road or towing use means a harder life for the engine and gearbox. (Negotiate) ### Interior - [ ] **Warning lights.** Turn the key to "on" and watch the dash: every warning light should come on, then go out once the engine runs. An airbag, brake or engine light that stays on or never lights needs an explanation. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Flood signs.** Check carpet, under the seats and the seatbelt tracks for a musty smell, damp patches or silt. Rusty bolts under the seats are another sign of past flood damage. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Seatbelts.** Pull each seatbelt out fully and let it retract, checking it latches firmly and shows no fraying. A belt that doesn't retract smoothly may not hold you properly in a crash. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Electrics.** Test the windows, central locking, infotainment screen, reverse camera and parking sensors, horn and wipers. Faulty electrics can be expensive to trace and fix. (Negotiate) ### Test Drive - [ ] **Gearbox.** Automatic: feel for smooth gear changes with no jerking or flaring revs; manual: listen for grinding or crunching. Harsh or hesitant shifts can mean a tired automatic gearbox needing costly work. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Brakes.** Brake firmly once when safe to do so and feel for a firm pedal, a straight stop, and no pulsing or grinding. Pulling to one side or grinding noises mean the brakes need attention soon. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Noises at speed.** Drive above 80 km/h on a quiet road and listen for a humming noise that gets louder as you speed up. A growing hum like this usually means a worn wheel bearing that will need replacing. (Negotiate) ### Documentation - [ ] **PPSR is clear.** Run a PPSR check and confirm there's no money owing, the car isn't stolen, and it isn't written off. A "repairable" write-off is legal to buy but worth less and harder to insure. - [ ] **Recalls done.** Ask the seller for proof of recall work, or have a dealer check the VIN for open recalls. An open airbag recall left undone is a serious safety risk. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Timing belt.** Ask when the timing belt was last replaced, if the engine has one, and look for a receipt proving it. A snapped timing belt can wreck the engine and cost thousands to fix. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Registration.** Check the registration status online to confirm it is current, and ask whether a roadworthy certificate is included, since some states require one before a car can be sold. ## Stay Safe Never go under a car held up only by a jack, and never open the radiator or coolant cap on a hot engine. Keep hands, hair and loose clothing clear of fans and belts when the engine is running, and do checks under the bonnet with it switched off where you can. On the test drive, hold a current licence, confirm the car is registered and insured, obey road rules, and only brake hard when the road behind is clear. Meet in a safe, public-facing place, take someone with you, and don't carry large amounts of cash to a viewing. ## Disclaimer This checklist is general information only and is not professional, mechanical, legal or financial advice. It covers common checks, not every possible fault, and a car can pass every item here and still have problems. It is not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection by a qualified mechanic, which is worth considering before you buy, especially if anything tagged Safety critical turns up. Repair costs vary widely; get your own quotes. Roadworthy, registration and transfer rules differ by state, so check with your state road authority. Private sales generally don't come with the consumer guarantees that apply when you buy from a dealer. You use this checklist at your own risk and, to the extent permitted by law, Shufti accepts no liability for any loss, damage or injury arising from its use. ## Buying a Used Car: Questions Answered ### How do I check a second hand car before buying? Run a PPSR search on ppsr.gov.au (https://www.ppsr.gov.au/) for money owing and for whether it's been reported stolen or written off, check its registration, and check its recalls on the Vehicle Recalls site (https://www.vehiclerecalls.gov.au/). Then inspect it with this checklist, starting with the engine cold, and finish with a test drive of at least 20 minutes on a mix of roads. See Vehicle checks to do before buying a used car (https://shufti.com.au/guides/vehicle-checks-before-buying) and How to test drive a used car (https://shufti.com.au/guides/how-to-test-drive-a-used-car) ### What documents should I check when buying a used car? The registration papers, the seller's photo ID, the service history and your own PPSR certificate, with the VIN matching on all of them and on the car, plus a signed receipt. In Victoria and Queensland, also the seller's roadworthy or safety certificate. See What documents to check when buying a used car (https://shufti.com.au/guides/what-documents-to-check-when-buying-a-used-car) ### What should I check when buying from a private seller? Check the seller as well as the car: their ID should match the registration papers, and you should meet at the address on them. A private sale doesn't come with a dealer's guarantees, so run a PPSR check, inspect the car with this checklist and pay in a way you can trace. See Buying a used car from a private seller (https://shufti.com.au/guides/buying-a-used-car-from-a-private-seller) ### Do I need a roadworthy or safety certificate? It depends on the state. In Victoria the seller must give you a roadworthy certificate less than 30 days old, and in Queensland the seller must have a current safety certificate. In the ACT and the NT an older car needs an inspection to change hands. In NSW, WA and SA you don't need one to buy a car already registered there, or in Tasmania one currently registered. Either way, a certificate isn't a check of the car's overall condition. See buying a used car in Victoria (https://shufti.com.au/guides/buying-a-used-car-in-victoria), NSW (https://shufti.com.au/guides/buying-a-used-car-in-nsw), Queensland (https://shufti.com.au/guides/buying-a-used-car-in-queensland), Western Australia (https://shufti.com.au/guides/buying-a-used-car-in-wa), South Australia (https://shufti.com.au/guides/buying-a-used-car-in-sa), Tasmania (https://shufti.com.au/guides/buying-a-used-car-in-tasmania), the ACT (https://shufti.com.au/guides/buying-a-used-car-in-the-act) or the NT (https://shufti.com.au/guides/buying-a-used-car-in-the-nt) ### How long does a used car inspection take? Allow about an hour: around half an hour to work through the checklist, starting with a cold engine, and a test drive of 20 to 30 minutes that takes in different speeds and road surfaces. Rushing is how problems get missed, so be wary of a seller who hurries you. ### Can I have a used car inspected before buying? Yes. A mobile mechanic's pre-purchase inspection typically costs $250–350, but you can check it yourself first: work through this checklist at the viewing, starting with a cold engine. For the car you're serious about, Shufti's Tailored check builds the inspection for that exact car, with PPSR and recall checks and repair cost estimates, for $24.99. See Pre-purchase car inspection: what it checks and costs (https://shufti.com.au/guides/used-car-inspection-options) ### Is a checklist enough, or do I need a mechanic? A checklist helps you rule out the obvious problems and spot what to ask about. For the car you're serious about, Shufti's Tailored check goes further: it tells you what to look for on that car, what's wrong and what it will cost to fix, so you know what to pay or when to walk away. See Pre-purchase car inspection: what it checks and costs (https://shufti.com.au/guides/used-car-inspection-options) --- Shufti is an Australian used car inspection app for iPhone and Android that tailors the inspection to the exact car you're looking at. It is not affiliated with Shufti Pro, the identity verification (KYC) company. From the listing link, it builds every check around that car's make, model and year, odometer reading and the seller's description. It runs PPSR and government recall checks, crosschecks a database of more than 3 million recalls and owner complaints, flags problems from your photos and audio, plans a test drive, produces a shareable report with repair cost estimates, and coaches you through the negotiation. A Tailored check costs $24.99, or $49.99 for three, including PPSR and recall checks. A mechanic's pre-purchase inspection costs $250–350. To start, Shufti's General inspection guide is free: pick the car's make and model, and it takes you through the checks that matter for that model, on your phone. There's a guide for popular models, and one for every type of car. Made by Frontpoint Digital Pty Ltd (ABN 23 669 870 366), Melbourne, Australia. Contact: hello@shufti.com.au. Download: [App Store](https://apps.apple.com/au/app/shufti-used-car-inspection/id6795718336?pt=129235165&ct=Website%20guide&mt=8), [Google Play](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=au.shufti.shufti_app&referrer=utm_source%3Dshufti.com.au%26utm_medium%3Dwebsite%26utm_campaign%3DWebsite%2520guide%26utm_content%3Dllms%26utm_term%3D%252Fllms.txt).