# Used Ford Ranger: Common Problems and Which Years to Buy > What to check on a used Ranger ute, what a problem looks like, and when to walk away. Covers: PJ (2006–2009), PK (2009–2011), PX (2011–2015), PX II (2015–2018), PX III (2018–2022), Next-gen (2022 on). Last updated: 2 November 2026. Web page: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-ford-ranger-inspection-checklist. Printable PDF: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-ford-ranger-inspection-checklist.pdf. ## Common Problems on a Used Ford Ranger The most commonly reported problems on a used Ford Ranger are exhaust cooler (EGR cooler) failures on some diesel versions, automatic gearbox shudder, and water leaking in through the door and rear-window seals. As on any hard-worked ute, check for a bent chassis, tired rear springs and undocumented modifications. ### Exhaust Cooler (EGR Cooler) Failures A diesel Ranger feeds some of its exhaust gas back into the engine to cut emissions, and the EGR cooler cools that gas on the way. On some diesel Rangers the cooler can crack and leak coolant into the engine. The signs are the coolant level dropping with no visible leak, white smoke with a sweet smell from the exhaust, and the engine running hot. Check the coolant is at the mark and clean, ask whether it ever needs topping up, and watch for white smoke at start-up. After the drive, the temperature gauge should be steady. Left alone, coolant getting into the engine can cause serious damage. Ask whether the EGR cooler has ever been replaced, with receipts. If the coolant is dropping and you can't see why, have a mechanic pressure-test the system before you buy. ### Automatic Gearbox Shudder Some automatic Rangers are known for a shudder or vibration at low speeds and light throttle, as the gearbox locks up, and for harsh or clunky changes. Heavy towing wears an automatic gearbox faster ([ProductReview owner reviews](https://www.productreview.com.au/listings/ford-ranger-pxii-pxiii-4x4-32l-turbo-diesel-xlt?page=2)). On the test drive, accelerate gently from a stop and cruise at 60 to 80 km/h on light throttle. A vibration like driving over rumble strips is the shudder. Also feel for slipping, revs flaring between gears, or a thump into gear. Ask when the gearbox fluid was last changed and whether the gearbox has had any repairs, with receipts. A fluid change sometimes cures a shudder, but worn gearbox parts are a big repair, so have a mechanic check it or price it in. ### Water Leaking In Some Rangers let water in through the door seals and the rear-window seal, and holes drilled for roof racks, a snorkel or aerials add more ways in. Water left in the cabin rots the carpet, causes mould and smells, and can damage wiring and electronics under the seats and floor. Press the carpet in the footwells and under the rear seat for damp, look for stains on the headlining and rust on the seat bolts, and smell for mustiness. Run your eye along the door and rear-window seals for gaps or perished rubber. Seals are cheap to replace, but water damage to wiring isn't. If the carpet is wet, find out where the water is getting in before you buy. ### Exhaust Filter (DPF) Faults A diesel Ranger has a filter in the exhaust, the DPF, that traps soot and burns it off as the ute drives. The burn-off needs a hot exhaust, so it happens on longer runs. A ute that has mostly done short trips around town can keep starting a burn-off and never finishing it, and the filter slowly clogs ([ProductReview owner reviews](https://www.productreview.com.au/listings/ford-ranger-pxii-pxiii-4x4-32l-turbo-diesel-xlt)). The signs are a DPF or engine warning light, the engine losing power, and the oil level creeping up as diesel from the interrupted burn-offs gets into the oil. At the viewing, check the oil isn't above the top mark and doesn't smell of diesel, and ask how the ute was driven and whether the filter has ever been cleaned or replaced. A clogged filter can sometimes be cleared by a mechanic, but a replacement is an expensive fix, so price it into your offer. If the filter has been removed instead, walk away or get it put back: driving without it is illegal and can void insurance. ### A Bent Chassis The chassis is the steel frame the Ranger's body sits on. Too much weight at the back, from heavy canopies, loaded trays, towing at the limit or hard off-road driving, strains it just behind the cab, and over time it can bend there. A GVM upgrade lets a ute legally carry more without making the chassis any stronger. Stand side-on to the ute. The gap between the back of the cab and the front of the tub or tray should be even from top to bottom; if it's narrower at the top, the chassis may be bent. Then look underneath, behind the cab and near the rear suspension, for kinks, cracks, fresh welds or cracked paint on the frame. A bent chassis affects how the ute handles and how it holds together in a crash, so treat it as a reason to walk away. A repair should come with an engineer's report. ### Tired Rear Springs The rear springs carry whatever is in the tub, and years of heavy loads, canopies and towing flatten them. A Ranger with tired springs sits low at the back, bottoms out over bumps, and steers and brakes worse when it's loaded or towing. Park the ute empty on level ground and look from the side: the rear shouldn't sit lower than the front. Underneath, the leaf springs should still curve upward, with no cracked leaves or worn mounts. New springs are a moderate cost, so price them into your offer. If aftermarket springs are fitted, ask for the paperwork, as springs that raise the load limit need to be certified. ### Undocumented Modifications Many Rangers have been fitted with lift kits, bigger tyres, bullbars, canopies, GVM upgrades or engine tunes. Done properly and certified, most are fine. Undocumented changes can make a ute unroadworthy or uninsurable, and a tune can mean the exhaust filter has been removed, which is illegal. Ask the seller for a list of every modification and the paperwork for each, and check that the insurer has been told about them. Ask directly whether the ute has been tuned or had emissions parts removed, and get the answer in writing. ## Which Ford Ranger Years to Avoid? No single Ford Ranger year stands out as one to avoid. Newer ones usually have fewer kilometres and less wear, and the newest may still have some new-car warranty left. Whatever the year, a car's condition, service history and recalls tell you more than its build date, and Shufti looks up the reported faults and recalls for the exact car from its listing. - **PJ (2006–2009).** 17 to 20 years old, typically about 210,000–250,000 km. At this age, condition and history count for more than the year: look hard for rust, worn suspension and leaks, and check whether a timing belt (if it has one) has been replaced. - **PK (2009–2011).** 15 to 17 years old, typically about 190,000–210,000 km. At this age, condition and history count for more than the year: look hard for rust, worn suspension and leaks, and check whether a timing belt (if it has one) has been replaced. - **PX (2011–2015).** 11 to 15 years old, typically about 140,000–190,000 km. ANCAP ratings: [5 out of 5 (2011) for most variants](https://www.ancap.com.au/safety-ratings/ford/ranger/5629b5); [4 out of 5 (2011) for the 4x2 single cab chassis](https://www.ancap.com.au/safety-ratings/ford/ranger/0f706a). Stability control is standard. At this age, condition and history count for more than the year: look hard for rust, worn suspension and leaks, and check whether a timing belt (if it has one) has been replaced. - **PX II (2015–2018).** 8 to 11 years old, typically about 100,000–140,000 km. ANCAP rating: [5 out of 5 (2015)](https://www.ancap.com.au/safety-ratings/ford/ranger/40e4c5). Stability control is standard. AEB is on some variants. Most have done enough kilometres for wear items to come due: check the service history for regular servicing, and whether tyres, brakes and the battery need replacing. - **PX III (2018–2022).** 4 to 8 years old, typically about 50,000–100,000 km. ANCAP rating: [5 out of 5 (2015)](https://www.ancap.com.au/safety-ratings/ford/ranger/40e4c5). Stability control is standard. AEB is standard from April 2019 builds; before, it was on some variants. Most have done enough kilometres for wear items to come due: check the service history for regular servicing, and whether tyres, brakes and the battery need replacing. Ford's new-car warranty is 5 years with unlimited kilometres for cars sold from May 2018 (7 years for cars first sold from September 2026 and serviced on time only at Ford dealers), so ones first sold from 2021 may still be covered. - **Next-gen (2022 on).** Up to 4 years old, typically up to about 50,000 km. ANCAP rating: [5 out of 5 (2022), expiring December 2028, for all but the Raptor, which is unrated](https://www.ancap.com.au/safety-ratings/ford/ranger/58f98d). Stability control and AEB are standard. The current model. Ford's new-car warranty is 5 years with unlimited kilometres for cars sold from May 2018 (7 years for cars first sold from September 2026 and serviced on time only at Ford dealers), so any may still be covered. Check how much is left and that servicing has kept it valid. Kilometres are at the Australian average of about 12,600 km a year. Well above that means harder use; well below, ask why. Warranty terms are from [Ford's warranty page](https://www.ford.com.au/support/how-tos/warranty/warranties-and-coverage/what-is-the-new-vehicle-warranty), as at November 2026, for private buyers. The warranty runs from when the car was first sold or registered, which the service book shows. ## Ford Ranger General Inspection Guide A guide to checking for Ford Ranger problems, built on the [used car buying checklist](https://shufti.com.au/checklists/australian-used-car-inspection-checklist) for any car. It can't cover every problem reported across its years in one viewing. Tick it if it's fine. Cross it if it isn't, and note what you found so you can price it into your offer. - Safety critical: Affects how safely it drives or protects you in a crash. Best to have a mechanic check it before you buy. - Negotiate: Costs money to fix, from wear to major repairs. Use it as negotiation leverage. ### Exterior and Tub - [ ] **Chassis bend.** Stand side-on and compare the gap between the cab and the tub along its length; it should stay even from top to bottom. A gap that's narrower at the top means the chassis has been bent by overloading or towing. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Bullbar.** If a bullbar is fitted, check it's bolted on solidly with no rust or cracks, and sits in line with the body. A poorly fitted bullbar can stop the airbags working properly in a crash. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Tub or tray.** Look over the tub or tray for dents, cracks and rust, especially at tie-down points and tailgate hinges, lifting any liner to check underneath. A liner is often fitted to hide old damage. (Negotiate) ### Under the Bonnet - [ ] **Oil level.** Pull the dipstick and check the oil isn't above the top mark and doesn't smell of diesel. A rising, diesel-smelling level means fuel is getting into the oil, often from short trips that stop the exhaust filter cleaning itself. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Soot.** Look around the engine's air pipes for thick, oily black soot and ask if it's ever been cleaned out. Heavy soot build-up points to a filter or turbo problem. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Turbo.** Check inside the big air pipes for oily residue, and listen for a loud siren-like whistle or watch for blue smoke on a hard pull. Oil in the pipes or a whistling noise points to a boost leak or failing turbo, which is costly to fix. (Negotiate) ### Underbody and 4x4 - [ ] **Chassis.** Crouch and look along the frame under the car for kinks, cracks or fresh welds, especially behind the cab and near the rear springs. Fresh welds or paint in one spot can hide crash or overload damage. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Beach use.** Look at the frame rails for rust; light surface rust is normal but flaking metal or holes are not. Sand and salt packed into the frame rusts it from the inside out. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Rear springs.** Look at the rear leaf springs from the side: they shouldn't sit flat or curve upward, and the leaves shouldn't be cracked. Ask for load-limit paperwork if aftermarket springs are fitted. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Oil leaks.** Look underneath at the axles and drive parts for oil leaks, and check inside the rear wheels for oil residue. Oil inside a rear wheel can mean a leaking seal or contaminated brake. (Negotiate) ### Interior and Electrics - [ ] **Warning lights.** Turn the key to "on" and watch that the engine, glow plug, ABS, airbag and 4WD lights come on then go out once running. A light left on, especially the exhaust filter or engine light, needs explaining before you buy. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Water leaks.** Check the carpet, headlining and seat bolts for damp or rust, and look at the door and rear-window seals. Holes drilled for roof racks or a snorkel are a common source of leaks. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Air con.** Run the air con and check it blows cold, then switch to heat and check it gets hot. Weak cooling often means a costly compressor or system repair. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Spare wheel.** Lower the spare from its carrier under the tray and check it's the right size with good tread. The lowering mechanism can seize from rust and cost real money to free up. (Negotiate) ### Test Drive - [ ] **Automatic gearbox.** Drive through all gears from a stop and at gentle throttle, feeling for slipping, harsh clunks or shuddering. Harsh or hesitant shifts point to an expensive gearbox problem. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Power.** Accelerate firmly and check the engine pulls strongly with no flat spots or sudden loss of power. A hesitation under load can point to a fuel, turbo or sensor fault. (Negotiate) - [ ] **4WD.** On gravel or grass, select 4H then 4L and check both engage without clunks or grinding. Never test part-time 4WD on dry bitumen as it can damage the drivetrain. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Steering.** At highway speed, check the car tracks straight without wandering or pulling to one side. Wandering can mean worn steering or suspension parts. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Brakes.** Brake firmly from speed and check the pedal stays firm with no shaking or pulling to one side. A shaking pedal often means warped brake rotors, common on towing utes. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Noises.** Listen for clunks over bumps, a hum that grows with speed, or a whine as you accelerate. A speed-related hum often means a worn wheel bearing. (Negotiate) ### Documentation - [ ] **Modification paperwork.** Ask for certificates for any load-limit (GVM) upgrade, lift or bigger tyres your state requires, and check the insurer was told. - [ ] **Tuning.** Ask the seller directly whether the car has ever been tuned or had an aftermarket performance module fitted, and get the answer in writing. - [ ] **Emissions parts.** Ask the seller directly whether any emissions parts, such as the exhaust filter, have ever been removed or altered, and get the answer in writing. - [ ] **Service history.** Check the logbook for oil and fuel-filter changes done on time, and extra gearbox servicing if the car has towed heavily. Water in diesel fuel damages injectors if filters are skipped. (Negotiate) ## Stay Safe Never go under a car held up only by a jack, and never open the radiator or coolant cap on a hot engine. Keep hands, hair and loose clothing clear of fans and belts when the engine is running, and do checks under the bonnet with it switched off where you can. On the test drive, hold a current licence, confirm the car is registered and insured, obey road rules, and only brake hard when the road behind is clear. Meet in a safe, public-facing place, take someone with you, and don't carry large amounts of cash to a viewing. ## Disclaimer Shufti is not affiliated with or endorsed by Ford; Ford and Ranger are trademarks of Ford Motor Company. Figures are counts from Shufti's analysis of official records and published reports, not a statement that any particular vehicle is affected. This checklist is general information only and is not professional, mechanical, legal or financial advice. It covers common checks, not every possible fault, and a car can pass every item here and still have problems. It is not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection by a qualified mechanic, which is worth considering before you buy, especially if anything tagged Safety critical turns up. Repair costs vary widely; get your own quotes. Roadworthy, registration and transfer rules differ by state, so check with your state road authority. Private sales generally don't come with the consumer guarantees that apply when you buy from a dealer. You use this checklist at your own risk and, to the extent permitted by law, Shufti accepts no liability for any loss, damage or injury arising from its use. ## Buying a Used Ford Ranger: Questions Answered ### Is a used Ford Ranger reliable? It depends more on the particular car than the badge: how it was driven, loaded and serviced. Work through the commonly reported problems above, read the service history for servicing done on time, and run a PPSR check. ### Which Ford Ranger years should I avoid? No single Ford Ranger year stands out as one to avoid. Newer ones usually have fewer kilometres and less wear, and the newest may still have some new-car warranty left. Whatever the year, a car's condition, service history and recalls tell you more than its build date, and Shufti looks up the reported faults and recalls for the exact car from its listing. This checklist covers the PJ (2006–2009), PK (2009–2011), PX (2011–2015), PX II (2015–2018), PX III (2018–2022) and Next-gen (2022 on) Ford Ranger. Problems reported across them include a bent chassis, exhaust cooler (EGR cooler) failures, exhaust filter (DPF) faults, automatic gearbox shudder and water leaking in through the door and rear-window seals. ### How many kilometres is too many for a used Ford Ranger? Kilometres matter less than how a ute has worked. One with high highway kilometres and a full service history can be a better buy than a low-kilometre one that's towed heavy loads, worked on a mine site or been off-road. Check the service history for regular oil changes, ask how it was used, and find out whether any timing belt replacement is due, as it's a costly job. ### Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a used Ford Ranger? It's most worth it on a car where a hidden fault could be costly. Utes that have towed, carried heavy loads or been off-road can hide expensive wear underneath, so look under the car, and check the towbar, suspension and tyre wear closely. Either way, start by checking the car yourself with this checklist, so you know what to look for and whether it's worth paying a mechanic to see. See Pre-purchase car inspection: what it checks and costs (https://shufti.com.au/guides/used-car-inspection-options) ### How do I check a used Ford Ranger for money owing or a write-off? Run a PPSR check with the car's VIN on ppsr.gov.au (https://www.ppsr.gov.au/). It shows whether there's finance owing and whether the car has been reported stolen or written off. Run it on the day you pay. See What a PPSR check covers and what it doesn't (https://shufti.com.au/guides/what-is-a-ppsr-check) ### How do I check recalls on a used Ford Ranger? Search the government's Vehicle Recalls site for the Ford Ranger (https://www.vehiclerecalls.gov.au/recalls/browse-all-recalls?search=Ford%20Ranger). Each notice says which models and build dates it covers and what the fault is. A recall on record doesn't tell you whether the work was done on a particular car, so ask the seller for proof, or ask a Ford dealer to check the VIN. --- Shufti is an Australian used car inspection app for iPhone and Android that tailors the inspection to the exact car you're looking at. It is not affiliated with Shufti Pro, the identity verification (KYC) company. From the listing link, it builds every check around that car's make, model and year, odometer reading and the seller's description. It runs PPSR and government recall checks, crosschecks a database of more than 3 million recalls and owner complaints, flags problems from your photos and audio, plans a test drive, produces a shareable report with repair cost estimates, and coaches you through the negotiation. A Tailored check costs $24.99, or $49.99 for three, including PPSR and recall checks. A mechanic's pre-purchase inspection costs $250–350. To start, Shufti's General inspection guide is free: pick the car's make and model, and it takes you through the checks that matter for that model, on your phone. There's a guide for popular models, and one for every type of car. Made by Frontpoint Digital Pty Ltd (ABN 23 669 870 366), Melbourne, Australia. Contact: hello@shufti.com.au. Download: [App Store](https://apps.apple.com/au/app/shufti-used-car-inspection/id6795718336?pt=129235165&ct=Website%20guide&mt=8), [Google Play](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=au.shufti.shufti_app&referrer=utm_source%3Dshufti.com.au%26utm_medium%3Dwebsite%26utm_campaign%3DWebsite%2520guide%26utm_content%3Dllms%26utm_term%3D%252Fllms.txt).