# Used GWM Ute: Common Problems and Which Years to Buy > What to check on a used GWM Ute/Cannon, what a problem looks like, and when to walk away. Covers: NPW (Cannon) (2021 on). Last updated: 2 November 2026. Web page: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-gwm-ute-inspection-checklist. Printable PDF: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-gwm-ute-inspection-checklist.pdf. ## Common Problems on a Used GWM Ute The most commonly reported problems on a used GWM Ute, also sold as the Cannon, are soot build-up in the intake from the EGR system, a clunk or shunt from the driveline and transfer case, and a blocked exhaust filter (DPF) on utes used for short trips. Also check for turbo and AdBlue faults. ### Soot Build-Up in the Intake Like most modern turbo-diesels, the GWM Ute recirculates some exhaust gas through an EGR valve to cut emissions. Over time, soot from it mixes with oil vapour and builds up in the intake, which can cost power and cause rough running. On the drive, accelerate firmly from low speed: it should pull smoothly without hesitation, flat spots or black smoke. A check engine light or a rough idle are warning signs. Ask whether the intake or EGR valve has been cleaned or replaced, and whether a catch can is fitted. Clogged intakes need cleaning, so price it in if the ute runs poorly. ### Driveline Clunk and Transfer Case Shunt Owners report a clunk or shunt from the driveline when changing between drive and reverse, or when the four-wheel drive engages, traced to the transfer case and tailshaft. On the test drive, shift between drive and reverse a few times and pull away gently, and try four-wheel drive if the seller allows. Listen and feel for a heavy clunk under the car. Ask whether it's been looked at under warranty. A light clunk may be normal play, but a heavy one needs a mechanic's check before you buy. ### Blocked Exhaust Filter (DPF) The diesel particulate filter (DPF) traps soot and burns it off on longer drives. Utes used mainly for short trips don't get hot enough to clear it, so it can block, and the ute may lose power or go into limp mode ([ReDriven](https://redriven.com/reviews/gwm/cannon/used-gwm-cannon-review/)). Check the dash for a DPF or engine warning light, and ask how the ute has been used. On the drive, it should pull well, with no sudden loss of power. A blocked DPF can need a forced clean or replacement. Ask what's been done, with receipts, and price it into your offer if the warning is on. ## Which GWM Ute Years to Avoid? No single GWM Ute year stands out as one to avoid. Newer ones usually have fewer kilometres and less wear, and the newest may still have some new-car warranty left. Whatever the year, a car's condition, service history and recalls tell you more than its build date, and Shufti looks up the reported faults and recalls for the exact car from its listing. - **NPW (Cannon) (2021 on).** Up to 5 years old, typically up to about 60,000 km. ANCAP ratings: [5 stars (2021) for dual-cab utes built from August 2021 to January 2025, except the cab-chassis and Cannon-XSR](https://www.ancap.com.au/safety-ratings/great-wall-motors/ute/3e7f24); [5 stars (2021), expiring December 2027, for utes built from November 2024, except the XSR](https://www.ancap.com.au/safety-ratings/great-wall-motors/cannon/69b07e). Stability control and AEB are standard. The current model. Check how much of the new-car warranty is left and that servicing has kept it valid. Kilometres are at the Australian average of about 12,600 km a year. Well above that means harder use; well below, ask why. ## GWM Ute General Inspection Guide A guide to checking for GWM Ute problems, built on the [used car buying checklist](https://shufti.com.au/checklists/australian-used-car-inspection-checklist) for any car. It can't cover every problem reported across its years in one viewing. Tick it if it's fine. Cross it if it isn't, and note what you found so you can price it into your offer. - Safety critical: Affects how safely it drives or protects you in a crash. Best to have a mechanic check it before you buy. - Negotiate: Costs money to fix, from wear to major repairs. Get a quote and take it off the price. ### Exterior - [ ] **Chassis bend.** Stand side-on and compare the gap between the cab and the tub along its length; it should stay even from top to bottom. A gap narrower at the top means the chassis has been bent by overloading or towing. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Tub or tray.** Look over the tub for dents, cracks and rust, especially at tie-down points and tailgate hinges, lifting any liner to check underneath. A liner is often fitted to hide old damage. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Bullbar.** If a bullbar is fitted, check it's bolted on solidly with no rust or cracks and sits in line with the body. A poorly fitted bullbar can stop the airbags working properly in a crash. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Towbar.** Check the towbar and wiring plug for rust, cracked welds or looseness where it bolts to the chassis. A sagging rear with a towbar fitted suggests the vehicle has towed heavy loads often. (Negotiate) ### Under the Bonnet - [ ] **Oil level.** Pull the dipstick and check the oil isn't above the top mark and doesn't smell of diesel. A rising, diesel-smelling level means fuel is getting into the oil, often from short trips. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Intake soot.** Look at the intake pipe near the air filter box for thick black soot buildup and ask if it has ever been cleaned out. Heavy soot narrows the intake and can choke the engine's airflow over time. Blocked airflow often shows up as sluggish acceleration before it fails outright. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Turbo.** Check inside the big air pipes for oily residue, and listen for a loud whistle or watch for blue smoke on a hard pull. Oil in the pipes or a whistling noise points to a failing turbo. A turbo repair is a costly job once bearing wear sets in. (Negotiate) - [ ] **AdBlue tank.** Check the AdBlue filler cap near the fuel filler and ask the seller when it was last topped up and whether any warning ever appeared on the dash. A dosing fault can leave the car unable to restart. Ask if a dosing fault warning has ever appeared. (Negotiate) ### Underbody and Wheels - [ ] **Chassis rails.** Crouch and look along the frame under the car for kinks, cracks or fresh welds, especially behind the cab and near the rear springs. Fresh welds or paint in one spot can hide crash or overload damage. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Chassis rust.** Look at the frame rails for rust; light surface rust is normal but flaking metal or holes are not. Vehicles used near the coast or beach rust from the inside out if sand and salt pack into the frame. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Rear differential seal.** Look at the rear differential housing and the area around the output shafts for fresh oil wetness or drips. A leaking seal there lets gear oil escape and can starve the diff of lubrication. Dark, fresh oil around the shaft is the tell, not old dried grime. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Rear springs.** Look at the rear leaf springs from the side; they shouldn't sit flat or curve the wrong way, and the leaves shouldn't be cracked. Ask for load-limit paperwork if aftermarket springs are fitted. (Negotiate) ### Interior and Electrics - [ ] **Warning lights.** Turn the key to "on" and watch that the engine, ABS, airbag and 4WD warning lights come on then go out once running. A light left on, especially the AdBlue or engine light, needs explaining before you buy. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Air con.** Run the air con and check it blows cold within a minute or two. Weak cooling often means a costly compressor or system repair. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Water leaks.** Check the carpet, headlining and seat bolts for damp or rust, and look at the door and rear-window seals. Holes drilled for roof racks or a canopy are a common source of leaks. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Spare wheel.** Lower the spare from its carrier under the tray and check it's the right size with good tread. The lowering mechanism can seize from rust and cost real money to free up. (Negotiate) ### Test Drive - [ ] **Automatic gearbox.** Drive through all gears from a stop and at gentle throttle, feeling for slipping, harsh clunks or shuddering. Harsh or hesitant shifts point to an expensive gearbox problem. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Driveline clunk.** Drive slowly, lift off the throttle, then reapply and feel for a clunk from underneath as drive takes up again. The clunk points to worn driveline parts. Most noticeable at low speed when backing off then reapplying throttle. (Negotiate) - [ ] **4WD engagement.** On gravel or grass, select 4H then 4L and check both engage without grinding or warning lights. Never test part-time 4WD on dry bitumen as it can damage the drivetrain. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Steering.** At highway speed, check the car tracks straight without wandering or pulling to one side. Wandering can mean worn steering or suspension parts. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Brakes.** Brake firmly from speed and check the pedal stays firm with no shaking or pulling to one side. A shaking pedal often means warped brake rotors. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Noises.** Listen for clunks over bumps, a hum that grows with speed, or a whine as you accelerate. A speed-related hum often means a worn wheel bearing. (Negotiate) ### Documentation - [ ] **Modification paperwork.** Ask for certificates for any load-limit (GVM) upgrade, lift or bigger tyres your state requires, and check the insurer was told. - [ ] **Service history.** Check the logbook for oil and fuel-filter changes done on time, and extra servicing if the car has towed heavily. Skipped services can shorten the life of the turbo and injectors. (Negotiate) ## Stay Safe Never go under a car held up only by a jack, and never open the radiator or coolant cap on a hot engine. Keep hands, hair and loose clothing clear of fans and belts when the engine is running, and do checks under the bonnet with it switched off where you can. On the test drive, hold a current licence, confirm the car is registered and insured, obey road rules, and only brake hard when the road behind is clear. Meet in a safe, public-facing place, take someone with you, and don't carry large amounts of cash to a viewing. ## Disclaimer Shufti is not affiliated with or endorsed by GWM; GWM and Cannon are trademarks of Great Wall Motor Company Limited. Figures are counts from Shufti's analysis of official records and published reports, not a statement that any particular vehicle is affected. This checklist is general information only and is not professional, mechanical, legal or financial advice. It covers common checks, not every possible fault, and a car can pass every item here and still have problems. It is not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection by a qualified mechanic, which is worth considering before you buy, especially if anything tagged Safety critical turns up. Repair costs vary widely; get your own quotes. Roadworthy, registration and transfer rules differ by state, so check with your state road authority. Private sales generally don't come with the consumer guarantees that apply when you buy from a dealer. You use this checklist at your own risk and, to the extent permitted by law, Shufti accepts no liability for any loss, damage or injury arising from its use. ## Buying a Used GWM Ute: Questions Answered ### Is a used GWM Ute reliable? It depends more on the particular car than the badge: how it was driven, loaded and serviced. Work through the commonly reported problems above, read the service history for servicing done on time, and run a PPSR check. ### Which GWM Ute years should I avoid? No single GWM Ute year stands out as one to avoid. Newer ones usually have fewer kilometres and less wear, and the newest may still have some new-car warranty left. Whatever the year, a car's condition, service history and recalls tell you more than its build date, and Shufti looks up the reported faults and recalls for the exact car from its listing. This checklist covers the NPW (Cannon) (2021 on) GWM Ute. Problems reported across them include soot build-up in the intake, driveline clunks and DPF blockages. ### How many kilometres is too many for a used GWM Ute? Kilometres matter less than how a ute has worked. One with high highway kilometres and a full service history can be a better buy than a low-kilometre one that's towed heavy loads, worked on a mine site or been off-road. Check the service history for regular oil changes, ask how it was used, and find out whether any timing belt replacement is due, as it's a costly job. ### Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a used GWM Ute? It's most worth it on a car where a hidden fault could be costly. Utes that have towed, carried heavy loads or been off-road can hide expensive wear underneath, so look under the car, and check the towbar, suspension and tyre wear closely. Either way, start by checking the car yourself with this checklist, so you know what to look for and whether it's worth paying a mechanic to see. See Pre-purchase car inspection: what it checks and costs (https://shufti.com.au/guides/used-car-inspection-options) ### How do I check a used GWM Ute for money owing or a write-off? Run a PPSR check with the car's VIN on ppsr.gov.au (https://www.ppsr.gov.au/). It shows whether there's finance owing and whether the car has been reported stolen or written off. Run it on the day you pay. See What a PPSR check covers and what it doesn't (https://shufti.com.au/guides/what-is-a-ppsr-check) ### How do I check recalls on a used GWM Ute? Search the government's Vehicle Recalls site for the GWM Ute (https://www.vehiclerecalls.gov.au/recalls/browse-all-recalls?search=GWM%20Ute). Each notice says which models and build dates it covers and what the fault is. A recall on record doesn't tell you whether the work was done on a particular car, so ask the seller for proof, or ask a GWM dealer to check the VIN. --- Shufti is an Australian used car inspection app for iPhone and Android that tailors the inspection to the exact car you're looking at. It is not affiliated with Shufti Pro, the identity verification (KYC) company. From the listing link, it builds every check around that car's make, model and year, odometer reading and the seller's description. It runs PPSR and government recall checks, crosschecks a database of more than 3 million recalls and owner complaints, flags problems from your photos and audio, plans a test drive, produces a shareable report with repair cost estimates, and coaches you through the negotiation. A Tailored check costs $24.99, or $49.99 for three, including PPSR and recall checks. A mechanic's pre-purchase inspection costs $250–350. To start, Shufti's General inspection guide is free: pick the car's make and model, and it takes you through the checks that matter for that model, on your phone. There's a guide for popular models, and one for every type of car. Made by Frontpoint Digital Pty Ltd (ABN 23 669 870 366), Melbourne, Australia. Contact: hello@shufti.com.au. Download: [App Store](https://apps.apple.com/au/app/shufti-used-car-inspection/id6795718336?pt=129235165&ct=Website%20guide&mt=8), [Google Play](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=au.shufti.shufti_app&referrer=utm_source%3Dshufti.com.au%26utm_medium%3Dwebsite%26utm_campaign%3DWebsite%2520guide%26utm_content%3Dllms%26utm_term%3D%252Fllms.txt).