# Used Haval Jolion: Common Problems and Which Years to Buy > What to check on a used Jolion, what a problem looks like, and when to walk away. Covers: A01 (2021–2024), A01 facelift (2024 on). Last updated: 2 November 2026. Web page: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-haval-jolion-inspection-checklist. Printable PDF: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-haval-jolion-inspection-checklist.pdf. ## Common Problems on a Used Haval Jolion The most commonly reported problems on a used Haval Jolion are the engine using too much oil, false alarms from the driver-monitoring and lane-keeping systems, and jerky changes from the dual-clutch automatic at low speed. Also check for a flat battery and a frozen touchscreen. ### Excessive Oil Use Some Jolion owners report the 1.5-litre turbo petrol using more oil than it should between services. Run low, the engine can be damaged. Pull the dipstick: the oil should sit between the marks. Ask how often it gets topped up, and look for blue smoke from the exhaust on start-up or when accelerating. Ask whether the dealer has done an oil consumption test or any engine work under warranty. If it's using oil, have a mechanic check it before you buy. ### False Alarms From the Driver-Assist Systems Reviewers and owners report the Jolion's driver-monitoring camera beeping whenever you glance at the screen or instruments, and the lane-keeping steering against you near the lines. Turning them off takes several taps, and they come back on at every start ([CarExpert](https://www.carexpert.com.au/car-reviews/2024-gwm-haval-jolion-ultra-hybrid-review), [Chasing Cars](https://www.chasingcars.com.au/reviews/small-suvs/gwm-haval-jolion-ultra-hybrid-2024-review/)). On the test drive, drive normally for at least 15 minutes, including on a road with lane markings, and see whether the alerts would bother you. Check whether any have had software updates. It's a matter of comfort rather than a fault, but it's one buyers notice once they own the car. Ask the seller whether updates have helped. ### Jerky Low-Speed Gear Changes Petrol Jolions have a dual-clutch automatic, which owners report can jerk, hesitate or change gear roughly at low speed and in stop-start traffic. On the drive, pull away gently from a stop several times and creep in traffic. It should take up drive smoothly, with no shudder, clunks or delay. Ask whether the gearbox has had software updates or repairs. If it's rough on your drive, have a mechanic check it or price it into your offer. ## Which Haval Jolion Years to Avoid? No single Haval Jolion year stands out as one to avoid. Newer ones usually have fewer kilometres and less wear, and the newest may still have some new-car warranty left. Whatever the year, a car's condition, service history and recalls tell you more than its build date, and Shufti looks up the reported faults and recalls for the exact car from its listing. - **A01 (2021–2024).** 2 to 5 years old, typically about 30,000–60,000 km. ANCAP rating: [5 stars (2022), expiring December 2028](https://www.ancap.com.au/safety-ratings/great-wall-motors/haval-jolion/016ae7). Stability control and AEB are standard. Most have done enough kilometres for wear items to come due: check the service history for regular servicing, and whether tyres, brakes and the battery need replacing. - **A01 facelift (2024 on).** Up to 2 years old, typically up to about 30,000 km. ANCAP rating: [5 stars (2022), expiring December 2028](https://www.ancap.com.au/safety-ratings/great-wall-motors/haval-jolion/016ae7). Stability control and AEB are standard. The current model. Check how much of the new-car warranty is left and that servicing has kept it valid. Kilometres are at the Australian average of about 12,600 km a year. Well above that means harder use; well below, ask why. ## Haval Jolion General Inspection Guide A guide to checking for Haval Jolion problems, built on the [used car buying checklist](https://shufti.com.au/checklists/australian-used-car-inspection-checklist) for any car. It can't cover every problem reported across its years in one viewing. Tick it if it's fine. Cross it if it isn't, and note what you found so you can price it into your offer. - Safety critical: Affects how safely it drives or protects you in a crash. Best to have a mechanic check it before you buy. - Negotiate: Costs money to fix, from wear to major repairs. Get a quote and take it off the price. ### Exterior - [ ] **Rust.** Check the wheel arches, sills and the bottom edge of the tailgate for bubbling paint or rust spots. Rust starting at a seam usually means water has been sitting there for a long time. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Panel gaps.** Walk around the car and check panel gaps are even on both sides, especially around the bonnet and doors. Uneven gaps or mismatched paint colour can point to earlier crash repair. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Exterior lights.** Turn on every light including the LED running lights and indicators, and check none flicker or show moisture inside the lens. Moisture inside a headlight often means a failed seal. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Windscreen camera area.** Look at the area behind the rear-view mirror where the driver-assist camera sits and check it's clean and undamaged. A cracked or dirty cover there can trigger false warnings on the dash. ### Under the Bonnet - [ ] **Engine oil.** Pull the dipstick and check the oil sits between the marks and looks brown, not black or gritty. Ask how often it's been topped up, as a low level between services can mean the engine is using oil. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Coolant.** Check the coolant reservoir is filled to its mark and the coolant looks clean, not rusty or oily. Low or discoloured coolant can point to a leak or a head gasket problem. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Battery.** Look for a date sticker on the battery and check terminals aren't corroded. A battery over four to five years old is near the end of its life. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Cold start.** Start the engine from cold and listen for it to settle to a smooth idle within a few seconds, with no rattle or smoke. A rattle on cold start can mean worn internal engine parts. (Negotiate) ### Underbody and Wheels - [ ] **Tyres.** Check all four tyres are above the wear bars, worn evenly and roughly matched in age and brand. Uneven wear across one tyre can point to an alignment or suspension issue. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Underbody rust.** Look underneath the car for rust on the floor or around the suspension mounts, and for bent metal, fresh welds or a patch of new coating. One shiny patch among otherwise dirty metal can hide crash repair. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Exhaust mounts.** Check the rubber hangers holding up the exhaust underneath for cracking or looseness. A rattling or dragging exhaust on the test drive means a mount has failed. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Suspension bushes.** Look at the rubber bushes on the front control arms for cracking or splitting. Cracked bushes let the suspension move more than it should and cause clunks over bumps. (Negotiate) ### Interior and Electrics - [ ] **Warning lights.** Turn the key or push start without starting the engine, and check every dash light comes on then goes out once the engine is running. An airbag or brake warning that stays lit needs explaining before you buy. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Infotainment screen.** Turn on the touchscreen and check it responds quickly, connects to Bluetooth and shows the reversing camera clearly. A screen that freezes, restarts or won't pair points to an electrical fault. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Seatbelts.** Pull each seatbelt out fully and let it retract, and check it latches firmly with no fraying. Fraying webbing means the belt may not hold properly in a crash. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Driver-assist warnings.** While parked, check the lane-keep and driver-monitoring icons on the dash don't flash constant errors with the car stationary and engine running. Constant false alerts for these systems can mean a camera or sensor fault. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Air conditioning.** Run the air conditioning on its coldest setting for a few minutes and check it blows cold air strongly from all vents. Weak or warm airflow can mean a refrigerant leak or failing compressor. (Negotiate) ### Test Drive - [ ] **Dual-clutch gearbox.** Automatic (dual-clutch): drive away from a stop and through low-speed traffic, feeling for any shudder, hesitation or jerky shifts. Judder at low speed is a warning sign of clutch pack wear. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Manual gearbox.** Manual: work through all gears including reverse, checking the clutch bites smoothly and no gear grinds or pops out. A clutch that bites right at the top of the pedal travel may need replacing soon. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Brakes.** Brake firmly from a safe speed and check the car stops straight with a firm pedal and no grinding or pulling. Grinding or pulling to one side means brake parts need attention before the car is safe. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Steering feel.** At low speed, turn the wheel lock to lock and check it feels consistent with no clunks or looseness. Clunking on full lock can mean worn steering or suspension joints. (Negotiate) ### Documentation - [ ] **Service history.** Check the logbook is stamped on time at the correct intervals with matching receipts. Gaps in the history can hide deferred maintenance. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Warranty balance.** Ask how much of the new-car warranty remains and check the seller can show proof of servicing to keep it valid. A car still under warranty can save money on any early faults. - [ ] **Roadworthy certificate.** Confirm a current roadworthy certificate is supplied if your state requires one on sale, and that its details match the car. ## Stay Safe Never go under a car held up only by a jack, and never open the radiator or coolant cap on a hot engine. Keep hands, hair and loose clothing clear of fans and belts when the engine is running, and do checks under the bonnet with it switched off where you can. On the test drive, hold a current licence, confirm the car is registered and insured, obey road rules, and only brake hard when the road behind is clear. Meet in a safe, public-facing place, take someone with you, and don't carry large amounts of cash to a viewing. ## Disclaimer Shufti is not affiliated with or endorsed by Haval; Haval and Jolion are trademarks of Great Wall Motor Company Limited. Figures are counts from Shufti's analysis of official records and published reports, not a statement that any particular vehicle is affected. This checklist is general information only and is not professional, mechanical, legal or financial advice. It covers common checks, not every possible fault, and a car can pass every item here and still have problems. It is not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection by a qualified mechanic, which is worth considering before you buy, especially if anything tagged Safety critical turns up. Repair costs vary widely; get your own quotes. Roadworthy, registration and transfer rules differ by state, so check with your state road authority. Private sales generally don't come with the consumer guarantees that apply when you buy from a dealer. You use this checklist at your own risk and, to the extent permitted by law, Shufti accepts no liability for any loss, damage or injury arising from its use. ## Buying a Used Haval Jolion: Questions Answered ### Is a used Haval Jolion reliable? It depends more on the particular car than the badge: how it was driven, loaded and serviced. Work through the commonly reported problems above, read the service history for servicing done on time, and run a PPSR check. ### Which Haval Jolion years should I avoid? No single Haval Jolion year stands out as one to avoid. Newer ones usually have fewer kilometres and less wear, and the newest may still have some new-car warranty left. Whatever the year, a car's condition, service history and recalls tell you more than its build date, and Shufti looks up the reported faults and recalls for the exact car from its listing. This checklist covers the A01 (2021–2024) and A01 facelift (2024 on) Haval Jolion. Problems reported across them include the engine using too much oil, false driver-assist alarms and jerky low-speed gear changes. ### How many kilometres is too many for a used Haval Jolion? Kilometres matter less than how the car was driven and serviced. A high-kilometre SUV with a full service history can be a better buy than a low-kilometre one that's missed services, done short trips or been used for rideshare. Check the history for regular servicing, and on a hybrid ask for a battery health check. ### Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a used Haval Jolion? It's most worth it on a car where a hidden fault could be costly. All-wheel-drive and hybrid systems can hide faults a visual check won't show, so ask for the service records for them and watch for warning lights on the test drive. Either way, start by checking the car yourself with this checklist, so you know what to look for and whether it's worth paying a mechanic to see. See Pre-purchase car inspection: what it checks and costs (https://shufti.com.au/guides/used-car-inspection-options) ### How do I check a used Haval Jolion for money owing or a write-off? Run a PPSR check with the car's VIN on ppsr.gov.au (https://www.ppsr.gov.au/). It shows whether there's finance owing and whether the car has been reported stolen or written off. Run it on the day you pay. See What a PPSR check covers and what it doesn't (https://shufti.com.au/guides/what-is-a-ppsr-check) ### How do I check recalls on a used Haval Jolion? Search the government's Vehicle Recalls site for the Haval Jolion (https://www.vehiclerecalls.gov.au/recalls/browse-all-recalls?search=Haval%20Jolion). Each notice says which models and build dates it covers and what the fault is. A recall on record doesn't tell you whether the work was done on a particular car, so ask the seller for proof, or ask a Haval dealer to check the VIN. --- Shufti is an Australian used car inspection app for iPhone and Android that tailors the inspection to the exact car you're looking at. It is not affiliated with Shufti Pro, the identity verification (KYC) company. From the listing link, it builds every check around that car's make, model and year, odometer reading and the seller's description. It runs PPSR and government recall checks, crosschecks a database of more than 3 million recalls and owner complaints, flags problems from your photos and audio, plans a test drive, produces a shareable report with repair cost estimates, and coaches you through the negotiation. A Tailored check costs $24.99, or $49.99 for three, including PPSR and recall checks. A mechanic's pre-purchase inspection costs $250–350. To start, Shufti's General inspection guide is free: pick the car's make and model, and it takes you through the checks that matter for that model, on your phone. There's a guide for popular models, and one for every type of car. Made by Frontpoint Digital Pty Ltd (ABN 23 669 870 366), Melbourne, Australia. Contact: hello@shufti.com.au. Download: [App Store](https://apps.apple.com/au/app/shufti-used-car-inspection/id6795718336?pt=129235165&ct=Website%20guide&mt=8), [Google Play](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=au.shufti.shufti_app&referrer=utm_source%3Dshufti.com.au%26utm_medium%3Dwebsite%26utm_campaign%3DWebsite%2520guide%26utm_content%3Dllms%26utm_term%3D%252Fllms.txt).