# Used Isuzu D-Max Inspection Checklist > What to check on a used D-Max ute, what a problem looks like, and when to walk away. Covers: 1st gen (2008–2012), 2nd gen (2012–2020), 3rd gen (2020 on). Last updated: 30 September 2026. Web page: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-isuzu-d-max-inspection-checklist. Printable PDF: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-isuzu-d-max-inspection-checklist.pdf. ## Common Problems on a Used Isuzu D-Max The most commonly reported problems on a used Isuzu D-Max are exhaust filter (DPF) trouble on utes used mostly for short trips, and oily soot building up in the engine's air pipes. D-Maxes are popular work and fleet utes, so check for a bent chassis, tired rear springs and undocumented modifications. ## How to Use This Checklist Tick it if it's fine. Cross it if it isn't, and note what you found so you can price it into your offer. - Safety critical: Affects how safely it drives or protects you in a crash. Best to have a mechanic check it before you buy. - Negotiate: Costs money to fix, from wear to major repairs. Get a quote and take it off the price. ## Before You Go - [ ] **Get the VIN and rego** before you travel. A seller who won't share them is a red flag on its own. - [ ] **Ask how it was used:** towing (how heavy, how often), off-road, beach, fleet or mine site. D-Maxes are popular work and fleet utes; many have done hard kilometres. - [ ] **Ask for a list of modifications** and their paperwork: lift kit, higher load limit (GVM upgrade), bigger tyres, bullbar, canopy, engine tune. Undocumented mods can make a ute unroadworthy or uninsurable. - [ ] **Ask for the engine to be cold,** and bring a torch, gloves and something to lie on. ## Exterior and Tub - [ ] **Chassis bend.** From side-on, the gap between the cab and the tub or tray should be even top to bottom. A gap narrower at the top points to a chassis bent by overloading or towing. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Ride height.** Empty and on level ground, the rear shouldn't sit lower than the front. Tired rear springs are common on hard-worked utes. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Tub or tray.** Dents, cracks and rust at tie-downs and tailgate hinges. Lift any liner; it can hide damage. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Panels and paint.** Uneven gaps or paint on trim (crash repair), scrapes low on the body (off-roading), hail dimples on the roof and bonnet. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Bullbar** is made to work with the airbags and is solidly mounted. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Mine-site signs:** holes for flag poles and beacons, reflective-tape residue, fleet numbers. Price in a hard life. (Negotiate) ## Under the Bonnet - [ ] **Coolant** at the mark and brightly coloured. Rusty or oily coolant, or regular top-ups, needs a mechanic. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Oil level** not above the top mark, and not smelling of diesel. A rising level means diesel is getting in, often from short trips interrupting the exhaust filter's self-clean. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Soot and oil mist.** Thick, oily soot around the engine's air pipes. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Turbo.** Oil inside the big air pipes, a loud siren-like whistle, or blue smoke. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Tunes and deletes.** An extra box wired into the engine, or the exhaust filter (DPF) removed. Removing emissions parts is illegal and can void insurance. - [ ] **Water crossings.** Silt or mud in the air filter box or around the engine. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Extra wiring** for a second battery, lights or UHF radio is neat and fused. Messy wiring causes faults and fires. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Cold start.** Fires in a couple of seconds and settles to a smooth idle. Heavy knocking, rough running or smoke that won't clear needs a diesel mechanic. (Negotiate) ## Underbody and 4x4 - [ ] **Chassis** (the frame under the car). Kinks, cracks or fresh welds behind the cab and near the rear springs. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Beach use.** Sand or salt packed into the frame rusts it from the inside. Surface rust is normal; flaking or holes are not. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Rear springs.** Flat or upside-down curve, cracked leaves, worn mounts. Aftermarket springs need load-limit paperwork. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Front end.** Split rubber boots behind the wheels (grease sprayed around) and loose steering parts. Worse on lifted utes. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Oil leaks** from the axles and drive parts underneath. Oil inside a rear wheel can be a leaking seal or brake. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Underbody guards and towbar.** Dented guards show hard off-road use; a worn tow ball means lots of heavy towing. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Tyres** match the sticker in the door frame (or are engineered), wear evenly and are under ~6 years old. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Exhaust filter (DPF)** still fitted, on models that have one, with no heavy soot. Short trips make exhaust filter trouble more likely. (Negotiate) ## Interior and Electrics - [ ] **Warning lights.** Key to "on": engine, glow plug, ABS, airbag and 4WD lights come on, then go out once running. An exhaust filter (DPF) or engine light that stays on needs explaining. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Water leaks.** Damp carpet or a stained headlining. Check seals and holes drilled for racks or a snorkel. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Wear matches the kilometres.** Seat bolster, steering wheel, carpet under mats; screw holes from removed radios. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Air con** blows cold; heater gets hot. Count the keys and test the remotes. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Spare wheel.** Lower it from under the tray: the mechanism can seize. Jack and wheel brace present. (Negotiate) ## Test Drive - [ ] **Automatic gearbox.** Smooth changes, no slipping, flare or thump into gear, including when cold. Towing wears autos; ask when the fluid was changed. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Manual.** In 4th at 50 km/h, floor it: if revs rise faster than speed, the clutch is slipping. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Power and smoke.** Pulls strongly, with no flat spots, sudden power loss or black smoke. (Negotiate) - [ ] **4WD.** On gravel or grass, select 4H then 4L: no clunks or grinding. Don't use part-time 4WD on dry bitumen. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Steering and brakes.** No wandering at highway speed, or shaking through the brake pedal (common on towing utes). (Safety critical) - [ ] **Noises.** Clunks over bumps, a hum that grows with speed (wheel bearing), or a whine as you accelerate. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Afterwards,** check for an exhaust filter (DPF) warning, a steady temperature gauge and new drips underneath. Ask how often the filter runs its self-clean. (Negotiate) ## Documentation - [ ] **Seller's ID** matches the rego papers, and the VIN matches on the papers, VIN plate and chassis. - [ ] **Modification paperwork:** certificates for any load-limit (GVM) upgrade, lift or bigger tyres your state requires, and the insurer told. - [ ] **Tunes and emissions.** Ask directly whether it's been tuned or had emissions parts removed, and get the answer in writing. - [ ] **Service history.** Oil and fuel-filter changes on time. Water in diesel damages injectors; heavy towing should mean extra gearbox servicing. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Warranty.** A newer D-Max may still be under Isuzu's new-car warranty. Check the start date and that servicing kept it valid. ## Stay Safe Never go under a car held up only by a jack, and never open the radiator or coolant cap on a hot engine. Keep hands, hair and loose clothing clear of fans and belts when the engine is running, and do checks under the bonnet with it switched off where you can. On the test drive, hold a current licence, confirm the car is registered and insured, obey road rules, and only brake hard when the road behind is clear. Meet in a safe, public-facing place, take someone with you, and don't carry large amounts of cash to a viewing. ## Disclaimer Shufti is not affiliated with or endorsed by Isuzu; Isuzu and D-Max are trademarks of Isuzu Motors Limited. Figures are counts from Shufti's analysis of official records and published reports, not a statement that any particular vehicle is affected. This checklist is general information only and is not professional, mechanical, legal or financial advice. It covers common checks, not every possible fault, and a car can pass every item here and still have serious problems. It is not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection by a qualified mechanic, which we strongly recommend before you buy, especially for anything tagged Safety critical. Repair costs vary widely; get your own quotes. Roadworthy, registration and transfer rules differ by state, so check with your state road authority. Private sales generally don't come with the consumer guarantees that apply when you buy from a dealer. You use this checklist at your own risk and, to the extent permitted by law, Shufti accepts no liability for any loss, damage or injury arising from its use. --- Shufti is an Australian used car inspection app for iPhone and Android that tailors the inspection to the exact car you're looking at. It is not affiliated with Shufti Pro, the identity verification (KYC) company. From the listing link, it builds every check around that car's make, model and year, odometer reading and the seller's description. It runs PPSR and government recall checks, crosschecks a database of more than 3 million recalls and owner complaints, flags problems from your photos and audio, plans a test drive, produces a shareable report with repair cost estimates, and coaches you through the negotiation. A check costs $24.99, or $49.99 for three, including PPSR and recall checks. A mechanic's pre-purchase inspection costs $250–350. Made by Frontpoint Digital Pty Ltd (ABN 23 669 870 366), Melbourne, Australia. Contact: hello@shufti.com.au. Download: [App Store](https://apps.apple.com/app/id6795718336), [Google Play](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=au.shufti.shufti_app).