# Used LDV T60: Common Problems and Which Years to Buy > What to check on a used T60, what a problem looks like, and when to walk away. Covers: T60 (2017–2021), T60 Max (2021 on). Last updated: 2 November 2026. Web page: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-ldv-t60-inspection-checklist. Printable PDF: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-ldv-t60-inspection-checklist.pdf. ## Common Problems on a Used LDV T60 The most commonly reported problems on a used LDV T60 are cracked or split intercooler pipes, harsh shifts and shudder from the automatic gearbox, and exhaust filter (DPF) and EGR valve faults on the diesel. Also check for early clutch wear on manuals. ### Cracked Intercooler Pipes Owners report the T60's intercooler pipes and intercooler cracking or splitting. When they do, the turbo loses boost and the ute goes down on power ([ReDriven](https://redriven.com/reviews/ldv/t60/used-ldv-t60-review/)). With the bonnet open, look along the pipes between the turbo, intercooler and engine for cracks, oil mist or loose clamps. On the drive, accelerate firmly: listen for a whoosh and feel for a sudden loss of power. A split pipe is a cheap fix, but ask whether it's been replaced with a stronger part. Price it in if you find one. ### Harsh Automatic Gear Changes The six-speed automatic is criticised for harsh shifts and shudder, especially on downshifts, and owners also report a delay moving off ([ReDriven](https://redriven.com/reviews/ldv/t60/used-ldv-t60-review/), [ProductReview owner reviews](https://www.productreview.com.au/listings/ldv-t60-max-luxe/q-and-a)). On the test drive, pull away from a stop several times, then slow down gradually to a stop. Changes should be smooth, with no shudder, clunks or hesitation. Ask whether the gearbox has been serviced or had software updates. If it's rough on your drive, have a mechanic check it or price it into your offer. ### DPF and EGR Valve Faults Like other modern turbo-diesels, the T60 can block its exhaust filter (DPF) on short trips, and owners report EGR valve failures ([ReDriven](https://redriven.com/reviews/ldv/t60/used-ldv-t60-review/)). Check the dash for a DPF or engine warning light, and ask how the ute has been used. On the drive, it should pull smoothly, with no loss of power or black smoke. Ask what's been done to the DPF and EGR valve, with receipts. Price in a clean or replacement if a warning is on. ## Which LDV T60 Years to Avoid? No single LDV T60 year stands out as one to avoid. Newer ones usually have fewer kilometres and less wear, and the newest may still have some new-car warranty left. Whatever the year, a car's condition, service history and recalls tell you more than its build date, and Shufti looks up the reported faults and recalls for the exact car from its listing. - **T60 (2017–2021).** 5 to 9 years old, typically about 60,000–110,000 km. ANCAP rating: [5 stars (2017) for all but the electric eT60](https://www.ancap.com.au/safety-ratings/ldv/t60/d8ae5d). Stability control is standard; AEB wasn't available. Most have done enough kilometres for wear items to come due: check the service history for regular servicing, and whether tyres, brakes and the battery need replacing. - **T60 Max (2021 on).** Up to 5 years old, typically up to about 60,000 km. ANCAP rating: [5 stars (2017) for all but the electric eT60, until it expired in December 2024; later utes are unrated](https://www.ancap.com.au/safety-ratings/ldv/t60/d8ae5d). Stability control is standard; AEB wasn't available. The current model. Check how much of the new-car warranty is left and that servicing has kept it valid. Kilometres are at the Australian average of about 12,600 km a year. Well above that means harder use; well below, ask why. ## LDV T60 General Inspection Guide A guide to checking for LDV T60 problems, built on the [used car buying checklist](https://shufti.com.au/checklists/australian-used-car-inspection-checklist) for any car. It can't cover every problem reported across its years in one viewing. Tick it if it's fine. Cross it if it isn't, and note what you found so you can price it into your offer. - Safety critical: Affects how safely it drives or protects you in a crash. Best to have a mechanic check it before you buy. - Negotiate: Costs money to fix, from wear to major repairs. Get a quote and take it off the price. ### Exterior - [ ] **Chassis bend.** Stand side-on and compare the gap between the cab and the tub along its length; it should stay even from top to bottom. A gap narrower at the top means the chassis has been bent by overloading or towing. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Tub or tray.** Look over the tub or tray for dents, cracks and rust, especially at tie-down points and tailgate hinges, lifting any liner to check underneath. A liner is often fitted to hide old damage. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Panel rust.** Check the body panels, wheel arches and door bottoms for bubbling paint or rust spots. Surface rust spreading from panel edges usually means worse rust is hiding underneath. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Bullbar.** If a bullbar is fitted, check it's bolted on solidly with no rust or cracks and sits in line with the body. A poorly fitted bullbar can stop the airbags working properly in a crash. (Safety critical) ### Under the Bonnet - [ ] **Intercooler pipes.** Squeeze the hard plastic pipes running from the turbo to the intercooler and look closely for hairline cracks or old repairs. A cracked pipe lets boost pressure escape and causes a loss of power. Cracks often start near the clamps where the pipe flexes most. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Oil level.** Pull the dipstick and check the oil isn't above the top mark and doesn't smell of diesel. A rising, diesel-smelling level means fuel is getting into the oil, often from short trips that stop the exhaust filter cleaning itself. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Soot build-up.** Look around the engine's air pipes and EGR area for thick, oily black soot and ask if it's ever been cleaned out. Heavy soot build-up points to a filter, EGR or turbo problem. (Negotiate) ### Underbody and Wheels - [ ] **Chassis rails.** Crouch and look along the frame under the car for kinks, cracks or fresh welds, especially behind the cab and near the rear springs. Fresh welds or paint in one spot can hide crash or overload damage. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Underbody rust.** Check the chassis rails and crossmembers for rust; light surface rust is normal but flaking metal or holes are not. Sand and salt packed into the frame rusts it from the inside out. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Rear springs.** Look at the rear leaf springs from the side: they shouldn't sit flat or curve upward, and the leaves shouldn't be cracked. Ask for load-limit paperwork if aftermarket springs are fitted. (Negotiate) ### Interior and Electrics - [ ] **Warning lights.** Turn the key to "on" and watch that the engine, glow plug, ABS, airbag and 4WD lights come on then go out once running. A light left on needs explaining before you buy. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Infotainment screen.** Turn on the infotainment screen and check it responds to touch, loads the reversing camera and keeps working without freezing or rebooting. A screen that freezes or blacks out points to a faulty unit. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Air con.** Run the air con and check it blows cold within a minute or two. Weak cooling often means a costly compressor or system repair. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Spare wheel.** Lower the spare from its carrier under the tray and check it's the right size with good tread. The lowering mechanism can seize from rust and cost real money to free up. (Negotiate) ### Test Drive - [ ] **Automatic gearbox.** Automatic: drive through all gears from a stop and at gentle throttle, feeling for slipping, harsh clunks or shuddering. Judder at low speed is a warning sign of a worn or low-fluid gearbox. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Manual clutch.** Manual: pull away from a stop on a slight hill and check the clutch bites smoothly without slipping or a burning smell. A clutch that slips or smells hot may need replacing soon. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Throttle response.** Accelerate firmly from a stop and check the engine responds promptly without a noticeable delay before power builds. A flat spot before power comes in points to a turbo or sensor issue. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Power loss.** During the drive, watch for a sudden drop in power paired with a warning light on the dash. This points to the car entering a protective low-power mode due to an underlying fault. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Steering.** At highway speed, check the car tracks straight without wandering or pulling to one side. Wandering can mean worn steering or suspension parts. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Brakes.** Brake firmly from speed and check the pedal stays firm with no shaking or pulling to one side. A shaking pedal often means warped brake rotors, common on towing utes. (Safety critical) - [ ] **4WD engagement.** On gravel or grass, select 4H then 4L and check both engage without clunks or grinding. Never test part-time 4WD on dry bitumen as it can damage the drivetrain. (Negotiate) ### Documentation - [ ] **Modification paperwork.** Ask for certificates for any load-limit (GVM) upgrade, lift or bigger tyres your state requires, and check the insurer was told. - [ ] **Service history.** Check the logbook for oil, fuel-filter and EGR-related services done on time. Skipped servicing can bring on engine and gearbox faults sooner. (Negotiate) ## Stay Safe Never go under a car held up only by a jack, and never open the radiator or coolant cap on a hot engine. Keep hands, hair and loose clothing clear of fans and belts when the engine is running, and do checks under the bonnet with it switched off where you can. On the test drive, hold a current licence, confirm the car is registered and insured, obey road rules, and only brake hard when the road behind is clear. Meet in a safe, public-facing place, take someone with you, and don't carry large amounts of cash to a viewing. ## Disclaimer Shufti is not affiliated with or endorsed by LDV; LDV and T60 are trademarks of SAIC Motor Corporation Limited. Figures are counts from Shufti's analysis of official records and published reports, not a statement that any particular vehicle is affected. This checklist is general information only and is not professional, mechanical, legal or financial advice. It covers common checks, not every possible fault, and a car can pass every item here and still have problems. It is not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection by a qualified mechanic, which is worth considering before you buy, especially if anything tagged Safety critical turns up. Repair costs vary widely; get your own quotes. Roadworthy, registration and transfer rules differ by state, so check with your state road authority. Private sales generally don't come with the consumer guarantees that apply when you buy from a dealer. You use this checklist at your own risk and, to the extent permitted by law, Shufti accepts no liability for any loss, damage or injury arising from its use. ## Buying a Used LDV T60: Questions Answered ### Is a used LDV T60 reliable? It depends more on the particular car than the badge: how it was driven, loaded and serviced. Work through the commonly reported problems above, read the service history for servicing done on time, and run a PPSR check. ### Which LDV T60 years should I avoid? No single LDV T60 year stands out as one to avoid. Newer ones usually have fewer kilometres and less wear, and the newest may still have some new-car warranty left. Whatever the year, a car's condition, service history and recalls tell you more than its build date, and Shufti looks up the reported faults and recalls for the exact car from its listing. This checklist covers the T60 (2017–2021) and T60 Max (2021 on) LDV T60. Problems reported across them include cracked intercooler pipes, harsh automatic gear changes and DPF and EGR faults. ### How many kilometres is too many for a used LDV T60? Kilometres matter less than how a ute has worked. One with high highway kilometres and a full service history can be a better buy than a low-kilometre one that's towed heavy loads, worked on a mine site or been off-road. Check the service history for regular oil changes, ask how it was used, and find out whether any timing belt replacement is due, as it's a costly job. ### Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a used LDV T60? It's most worth it on a car where a hidden fault could be costly. Utes that have towed, carried heavy loads or been off-road can hide expensive wear underneath, so look under the car, and check the towbar, suspension and tyre wear closely. Either way, start by checking the car yourself with this checklist, so you know what to look for and whether it's worth paying a mechanic to see. See Pre-purchase car inspection: what it checks and costs (https://shufti.com.au/guides/used-car-inspection-options) ### How do I check a used LDV T60 for money owing or a write-off? Run a PPSR check with the car's VIN on ppsr.gov.au (https://www.ppsr.gov.au/). It shows whether there's finance owing and whether the car has been reported stolen or written off. Run it on the day you pay. See What a PPSR check covers and what it doesn't (https://shufti.com.au/guides/what-is-a-ppsr-check) ### How do I check recalls on a used LDV T60? Search the government's Vehicle Recalls site for the LDV T60 (https://www.vehiclerecalls.gov.au/recalls/browse-all-recalls?search=LDV%20T60). Each notice says which models and build dates it covers and what the fault is. A recall on record doesn't tell you whether the work was done on a particular car, so ask the seller for proof, or ask a LDV dealer to check the VIN. --- Shufti is an Australian used car inspection app for iPhone and Android that tailors the inspection to the exact car you're looking at. It is not affiliated with Shufti Pro, the identity verification (KYC) company. From the listing link, it builds every check around that car's make, model and year, odometer reading and the seller's description. It runs PPSR and government recall checks, crosschecks a database of more than 3 million recalls and owner complaints, flags problems from your photos and audio, plans a test drive, produces a shareable report with repair cost estimates, and coaches you through the negotiation. A Tailored check costs $24.99, or $49.99 for three, including PPSR and recall checks. A mechanic's pre-purchase inspection costs $250–350. To start, Shufti's General inspection guide is free: pick the car's make and model, and it takes you through the checks that matter for that model, on your phone. There's a guide for popular models, and one for every type of car. Made by Frontpoint Digital Pty Ltd (ABN 23 669 870 366), Melbourne, Australia. Contact: hello@shufti.com.au. Download: [App Store](https://apps.apple.com/au/app/shufti-used-car-inspection/id6795718336?pt=129235165&ct=Website%20guide&mt=8), [Google Play](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=au.shufti.shufti_app&referrer=utm_source%3Dshufti.com.au%26utm_medium%3Dwebsite%26utm_campaign%3DWebsite%2520guide%26utm_content%3Dllms%26utm_term%3D%252Fllms.txt).