# Used Mercedes-Benz A-Class: Common Problems and Which Years to Buy > What to check on a used A-Class, what a problem looks like, and when to walk away. Covers: W176 (2013–2018), W177 (2018 on). Last updated: 2 November 2026. Web page: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-mercedes-benz-a-class-inspection-checklist. Printable PDF: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-mercedes-benz-a-class-inspection-checklist.pdf. ## Common Problems on a Used Mercedes-Benz A-Class The most commonly reported problems on a used Mercedes-Benz A-Class are misfires from failing ignition coils, timing chain rattle and wear, and shudder or hesitation from the dual-clutch automatic at low speed. Also check for coolant leaks and rattles inside. ### Misfires From Failing Ignition Coils Owners of the W176 A-Class report misfires when an ignition coil fails. The engine runs rough, shakes at idle and may light the check engine warning. Start the engine and let it idle: it should run smoothly, with no shaking or stumbling. On the drive, feel for hesitation or jerking under acceleration. A coil is a fairly cheap fix, but a misfire left alone can damage the catalytic converter. Price it in, and have the cause confirmed if the engine runs rough. ### Timing Chain Rattle and Wear A-Class owners report the timing chain stretching and rattling, mostly on cold starts. A worn chain can jump a tooth and damage the engine. Ask to start the car from cold and listen for a rattle that lasts more than a second or two. A check engine light can also point to timing faults. Ask whether the chain or tensioner has been replaced, with receipts. If it rattles, have a mechanic check it before you buy. ### Dual-Clutch Shudder at Low Speed Most A-Classes have a seven-speed dual-clutch automatic, which owners report can shudder, hesitate or jerk when pulling away and in slow traffic. On the test drive, pull away gently from a stop several times, park and reverse up a slope. It should take up drive smoothly, with no judder or delay. Ask whether the gearbox has been serviced or had software updates. A juddering dual-clutch can need costly repairs, so price it in or have it checked. ## Which Mercedes-Benz A-Class Years to Avoid? No single Mercedes-Benz A-Class year stands out as one to avoid. Newer ones usually have fewer kilometres and less wear, and the newest may still have some new-car warranty left. Whatever the year, a car's condition, service history and recalls tell you more than its build date, and Shufti looks up the reported faults and recalls for the exact car from its listing. - **W176 (2013–2018).** 8 to 13 years old, typically about 100,000–160,000 km. ANCAP rating: [5 stars (2013)](https://www.ancap.com.au/safety-ratings/mercedes-benz/a-class/790d45). Stability control is standard; AEB was optional. Most have done enough kilometres for wear items to come due: check the service history for regular servicing, and whether tyres, brakes and the battery need replacing. - **W177 (2018 on).** Up to 8 years old, typically up to about 100,000 km. ANCAP rating: [5 stars (2018) for petrols built to December 2024, when it expired; later cars are unrated](https://www.ancap.com.au/safety-ratings/mercedes-benz/a-class/aceeba). Stability control and AEB are standard. The current model. The newest may still have some new-car warranty left; on older ones, check the service history and whether tyres, brakes and the battery are due. Kilometres are at the Australian average of about 12,600 km a year. Well above that means harder use; well below, ask why. ## Mercedes-Benz A-Class General Inspection Guide A guide to checking for Mercedes-Benz A-Class problems, built on the [used car buying checklist](https://shufti.com.au/checklists/australian-used-car-inspection-checklist) for any car. It can't cover every problem reported across its years in one viewing. Tick it if it's fine. Cross it if it isn't, and note what you found so you can price it into your offer. - Safety critical: Affects how safely it drives or protects you in a crash. Best to have a mechanic check it before you buy. - Negotiate: Costs money to fix, from wear to major repairs. Get a quote and take it off the price. ### Exterior - [ ] **Panel fit.** Sight down each panel gap and check paint colour matches across adjoining panels and inside the door jambs. Uneven gaps or overspray on seals point to earlier crash repair. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Alloy wheels.** Check all four alloy wheels for kerb scrapes, cracks or signs of repair paint on the rim edge. A cracked rim is a safety risk and can be costly to replace. Low-profile tyres on this car make kerbing more common. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Headlights.** Turn on every light and check each one is bright and clear with no condensation inside the lens. If fitted with LED or Matrix lights, check for dead segments. A cloudy patch inside the lens points to a failed seal. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Rust.** Check the sills, wheel arches and door bottoms for bubbling paint or rust. Any rust here points to a car that's spent time near the coast or stored wet. Rust starting at door bottoms usually spreads from trapped moisture inside. (Negotiate) ### Under the Bonnet - [ ] **Engine oil.** Pull the dipstick or check the digital readout and confirm the oil level is correct and the oil looks brown, not black or gritty. Ask how often oil is topped up between services. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Coolant level.** Check the coolant reservoir is filled to its mark and the coolant is a clean colour, not rusty or oily. Look around the thermostat housing and hoses for dried coolant residue. Crusty white or pink residue near hose joints points to a slow leak. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Engine idle smoothness.** Start the engine from cold and let it idle for a minute, listening for a rough, uneven note or the engine light coming on. A shaking idle or flashing light can mean a misfiring cylinder. A misfire often shows as a slight shudder felt through the car at idle. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Battery.** Look for clean terminals and check the car restarts quickly after being switched off for a minute. If fitted with stop-start, confirm it re-engages the engine smoothly. A battery older than about four years may need replacing soon. (Negotiate) ### Underbody and Wheels - [ ] **Underbody rust.** Look under the car at the floor and around the suspension mounts for rust, bent metal or fresh welds. A patch of new black coating in one spot can be hiding repair work. Fresh undercoating in just one spot is often used to disguise crash repairs. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Tyre tread.** Check tread depth is above the wear bars on all four tyres and wear is even across each one. Uneven wear across the width can point to worn suspension parts. Wear on one edge only usually means the wheels are out of alignment. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Brake discs.** Look at the visible edge of each brake disc through the wheel for deep grooves or a raised lip. A heavily grooved disc means it's due for replacement. A raised outer lip means the disc is worn thinner than it should be. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Exhaust filter.** Diesel: check for a dashboard warning about the particulate filter and look for soot staining around the exhaust tip. A filter that needs forced regeneration can be an expensive fix. Heavy soot staining points to frequent short trips that clog the filter. (Negotiate) ### Interior and Electrics - [ ] **Warning lights.** Turn the car on and check every dash light comes on then goes out once the engine is running. An airbag, brake, engine or emissions light that stays lit needs an explanation. A light taped over or a bulb removed is a red flag. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Seatbelts.** Pull each seatbelt out fully and let it retract, then click it into the buckle. It should move smoothly with no fraying or stiffness. A belt that doesn't retract properly may not hold you firmly in a crash. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Interior rattles.** Drive over a rough section of road with the stereo off and listen for rattles or squeaks from the dash, doors or centre console. Press on trim panels to check for looseness. Loose trim clips are cheap but can point to a hastily refitted interior after repair. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Infotainment screen.** Test the main touchscreen and any touchpad controller for lag, dead zones or a frozen display. Check Bluetooth and reversing camera if fitted work correctly. A slow or glitchy screen can point to a software fault that needs a dealer reset. (Negotiate) ### Test Drive - [ ] **Dual-clutch gearbox.** Automatic: pull away gently from a stop, including uphill or in traffic, and feel for judder or hesitation in the first few metres. Shifts higher up should feel smooth and quick. Judder at low speed is a warning sign of a worn clutch pack. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Timing chain noise.** Start the engine from cold before it's been run that day and listen for a rattle lasting more than a second or two. A persistent rattle at idle or on startup points to chain wear. A rattle that fades quickly is less concerning than one that lingers. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Brakes.** Brake firmly from speed on an empty road; the car should stop straight with no pulling, pulsing or grinding. A grinding noise means the pads have worn down to metal. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Steering.** Check the car tracks straight with no wandering, and the steering weight feels consistent at all speeds. A clunk felt through the wheel over bumps points to a worn steering part. (Negotiate) ### Documentation - [ ] **Seller's ID.** Check the seller's ID matches the name on the rego papers, and that the VIN matches across the papers and the VIN plate on the car. Any mismatch needs an explanation before you pay anything. - [ ] **Service history.** Look through the logbook for stamps on time with matching receipts, and check odometer readings climb steadily with no gaps. Missing stamps or a sudden jump in kilometres can mean skipped services. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Roadworthy certificate.** Check the registration status online and confirm a current roadworthy certificate is supplied if your state requires one for a private sale. A missing certificate can mean extra cost before you can drive it home. (Negotiate) ## Stay Safe Never go under a car held up only by a jack, and never open the radiator or coolant cap on a hot engine. Keep hands, hair and loose clothing clear of fans and belts when the engine is running, and do checks under the bonnet with it switched off where you can. On the test drive, hold a current licence, confirm the car is registered and insured, obey road rules, and only brake hard when the road behind is clear. Meet in a safe, public-facing place, take someone with you, and don't carry large amounts of cash to a viewing. ## Disclaimer Shufti is not affiliated with or endorsed by Mercedes-Benz; Mercedes-Benz and A-Class are trademarks of Mercedes-Benz Group AG. Figures are counts from Shufti's analysis of official records and published reports, not a statement that any particular vehicle is affected. This checklist is general information only and is not professional, mechanical, legal or financial advice. It covers common checks, not every possible fault, and a car can pass every item here and still have problems. It is not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection by a qualified mechanic, which is worth considering before you buy, especially if anything tagged Safety critical turns up. Repair costs vary widely; get your own quotes. Roadworthy, registration and transfer rules differ by state, so check with your state road authority. Private sales generally don't come with the consumer guarantees that apply when you buy from a dealer. You use this checklist at your own risk and, to the extent permitted by law, Shufti accepts no liability for any loss, damage or injury arising from its use. ## Buying a Used Mercedes-Benz A-Class: Questions Answered ### Is a used Mercedes-Benz A-Class reliable? It depends more on the particular car than the badge: how it was driven, loaded and serviced. Work through the commonly reported problems above, read the service history for servicing done on time, and run a PPSR check. ### Which Mercedes-Benz A-Class years should I avoid? No single Mercedes-Benz A-Class year stands out as one to avoid. Newer ones usually have fewer kilometres and less wear, and the newest may still have some new-car warranty left. Whatever the year, a car's condition, service history and recalls tell you more than its build date, and Shufti looks up the reported faults and recalls for the exact car from its listing. This checklist covers the W176 (2013–2018) and W177 (2018 on) Mercedes-Benz A-Class. Problems reported across them include misfires from failing ignition coils, timing chain rattle and dual-clutch shudder. ### How many kilometres is too many for a used Mercedes-Benz A-Class? Kilometres matter less than how the car was driven and serviced. A high-kilometre car with a full service history can be a better buy than a low-kilometre one that's missed services or spent years on short trips. Check the history for regular oil changes, and find out whether any timing belt replacement is due, as it's a costly job. ### Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a used Mercedes-Benz A-Class? It's most worth it on a car where a hidden fault could be costly. Hidden crash repairs and gearbox problems are easy to miss on a short test drive, so check panel gaps and paint closely and drive it long enough to feel every gear change. Either way, start by checking the car yourself with this checklist, so you know what to look for and whether it's worth paying a mechanic to see. See Pre-purchase car inspection: what it checks and costs (https://shufti.com.au/guides/used-car-inspection-options) ### How do I check a used Mercedes-Benz A-Class for money owing or a write-off? Run a PPSR check with the car's VIN on ppsr.gov.au (https://www.ppsr.gov.au/). It shows whether there's finance owing and whether the car has been reported stolen or written off. Run it on the day you pay. See What a PPSR check covers and what it doesn't (https://shufti.com.au/guides/what-is-a-ppsr-check) ### How do I check recalls on a used Mercedes-Benz A-Class? Search the government's Vehicle Recalls site for the Mercedes-Benz A-Class (https://www.vehiclerecalls.gov.au/recalls/browse-all-recalls?search=Mercedes-Benz%20A-Class). Each notice says which models and build dates it covers and what the fault is. A recall on record doesn't tell you whether the work was done on a particular car, so ask the seller for proof, or ask a Mercedes-Benz dealer to check the VIN. --- Shufti is an Australian used car inspection app for iPhone and Android that tailors the inspection to the exact car you're looking at. It is not affiliated with Shufti Pro, the identity verification (KYC) company. From the listing link, it builds every check around that car's make, model and year, odometer reading and the seller's description. It runs PPSR and government recall checks, crosschecks a database of more than 3 million recalls and owner complaints, flags problems from your photos and audio, plans a test drive, produces a shareable report with repair cost estimates, and coaches you through the negotiation. A Tailored check costs $24.99, or $49.99 for three, including PPSR and recall checks. A mechanic's pre-purchase inspection costs $250–350. To start, Shufti's General inspection guide is free: pick the car's make and model, and it takes you through the checks that matter for that model, on your phone. There's a guide for popular models, and one for every type of car. Made by Frontpoint Digital Pty Ltd (ABN 23 669 870 366), Melbourne, Australia. Contact: hello@shufti.com.au. Download: [App Store](https://apps.apple.com/au/app/shufti-used-car-inspection/id6795718336?pt=129235165&ct=Website%20guide&mt=8), [Google Play](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=au.shufti.shufti_app&referrer=utm_source%3Dshufti.com.au%26utm_medium%3Dwebsite%26utm_campaign%3DWebsite%2520guide%26utm_content%3Dllms%26utm_term%3D%252Fllms.txt).