# Used Mercedes-Benz GLC: Common Problems and Which Years to Buy > What to check on a used GLC, what a problem looks like, and when to walk away. Covers: X253 (2016–2022), X254 (2023 on). Last updated: 2 November 2026. Web page: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-mercedes-benz-glc-inspection-checklist. Printable PDF: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-mercedes-benz-glc-inspection-checklist.pdf. ## Common Problems on a Used Mercedes-Benz GLC The most commonly reported problems on a used Mercedes-Benz GLC are oil leaks from the oil cooler and filter housing, shudder or harsh shifts from the automatic gearbox, and front-end judder with fast tyre wear on the first-generation X253. Also check the air suspension, if fitted. ### Oil Leaks From the Oil Cooler and Filter Housing Owners of the X253 GLC report oil leaking from the seals on the oil cooler and oil filter housing as they age. With the bonnet open, look around the engine, especially near the oil filter housing, for wet oil or dust stuck to oil. A burning oil smell after the drive means oil is reaching hot parts. Seals are a moderate repair. Ask whether they've been replaced, and price the job in if you see a leak. ### Automatic Gearbox Shudder and Harsh Shifts Owners report the GLC's nine-speed automatic shuddering or changing gear harshly, especially at low speed. On the test drive, pull away gently from a stop several times and drive through the gears. Changes should be smooth, with no thump, shudder or delay. Ask whether the gearbox has been serviced or had software updates. If it shudders, have a mechanic check it or price it into your offer. ### Front-End Judder and Tyre Wear X253 GLC owners report the front tyres juddering or skipping, with thumping noises when turning tightly, and rapid wear on the outer edges of the front tyres, put down to the steering geometry ([AustralianCar.Reviews](https://www.australiancar.reviews/recalls-faults-mercedes-benz-x253-glc-2015-22/)). Look at the front tyres for wear on the outer edges. In a car park, turn full lock at low speed and feel for juddering or thumping from the front. Expect to replace front tyres often. Price in new tyres if they're worn, and ask about the wheel alignment history. ## Which Mercedes-Benz GLC Years to Avoid? No single Mercedes-Benz GLC year stands out as one to avoid. Newer ones usually have fewer kilometres and less wear, and the newest may still have some new-car warranty left. Whatever the year, a car's condition, service history and recalls tell you more than its build date, and Shufti looks up the reported faults and recalls for the exact car from its listing. - **X253 (2016–2022).** 4 to 10 years old, typically about 50,000–130,000 km. ANCAP rating: [5 stars (2015)](https://www.ancap.com.au/safety-ratings/mercedes-benz/glc/5a7a8d). Stability control and AEB are standard. Most have done enough kilometres for wear items to come due: check the service history for regular servicing, and whether tyres, brakes and the battery need replacing. - **X254 (2023 on).** Up to 3 years old, typically up to about 40,000 km. ANCAP rating: [5 stars (2022), expiring December 2028, for the GLC 200 and GLC 300 petrols](https://www.ancap.com.au/safety-ratings/mercedes-benz/glc/4a11d5). Stability control and AEB are standard. The current model. Check how much of the new-car warranty is left and that servicing has kept it valid. Kilometres are at the Australian average of about 12,600 km a year. Well above that means harder use; well below, ask why. ## Mercedes-Benz GLC General Inspection Guide A guide to checking for Mercedes-Benz GLC problems, built on the [used car buying checklist](https://shufti.com.au/checklists/australian-used-car-inspection-checklist) for any car. It can't cover every problem reported across its years in one viewing. Tick it if it's fine. Cross it if it isn't, and note what you found so you can price it into your offer. - Safety critical: Affects how safely it drives or protects you in a crash. Best to have a mechanic check it before you buy. - Negotiate: Costs money to fix, from wear to major repairs. Get a quote and take it off the price. ### Exterior - [ ] **Rust.** Check wheel arches, sills and the tailgate's lower edge for bubbling paint or surface rust. Rust starting at a seam usually means water has been sitting there for a long time. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Panel gaps.** Walk around the car and check panel gaps are even on both sides and paint colour matches panel to panel. Uneven gaps or a slightly different shade point to crash repair work. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Alloy wheels.** Look closely at each wheel rim for kerb scuffs, cracks or signs of repair. A cracked rim is a safety risk and expensive to replace on this car's larger wheel sizes. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Roof rails.** If roof rails are fitted, check they're firmly bolted with no cracking around the mounting points. Loose rails suggest heavy roof-top loads or racks have been carried. (Negotiate) ### Under the Bonnet - [ ] **Oil leaks.** Look at the engine's oil filter housing and cooler area for wet, oily residue or drips. A damp patch here is a sign of a leaking seal that gets worse over time. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Engine oil level.** Check the oil level and condition on the electronic dash readout or dipstick if fitted, looking for a clean brown colour rather than black or gritty oil. Oil that's very low or dark suggests poor servicing. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Diesel: AdBlue cap.** Diesel: find the AdBlue filler cap, usually next to the fuel filler, and check it's present and undamaged. A missing or cracked cap can let in dirt that damages the system. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Cold start noise.** Start the engine from cold and listen closely for a rattle from the front of the engine that fades after a few seconds. A persistent rattle on start-up can mean the timing chain has stretched. (Negotiate) ### Underbody and Wheels - [ ] **Tyres.** Check all four tyres are above the wear bars and worn evenly side to side. AWD (4MATIC) models need closely matched tyres, as mismatched ones strain the drivetrain. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Underbody rust.** Look underneath for rust on the floor pan or around suspension mounts, and for fresh welds or patchy new coating in one spot only. A single shiny patch among otherwise dirty metal can hide crash repair. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Air suspension.** If the car has air suspension, check it sits level on flat ground and doesn't sag on one corner after sitting overnight. A corner that drops overnight points to a leaking air spring or compressor. (Negotiate) - [ ] **4MATIC driveline.** AWD (4MATIC): look underneath for oil weeping around the rear differential or driveshaft. A leak here means an expensive drivetrain repair. (Negotiate) ### Interior and Electrics - [ ] **Warning lights.** Turn the ignition on without starting the engine and check every dash warning light comes on then switches off once running. A light that stays on, especially airbag or brake, needs explaining before you buy. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Seatbelts.** Pull each seatbelt fully out and let it retract, checking it latches firmly with no fraying on the webbing. Frayed webbing means the belt may not hold properly in a crash. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Infotainment screen.** Turn on the MBUX screen and check menus respond quickly without freezing, and that Bluetooth or Apple CarPlay connects properly. A screen that freezes or restarts on its own can be a costly fix. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Panoramic sunroof.** If fitted, open and close the sunroof fully and listen for grinding, and check no water staining shows on the roof lining. A slow or noisy sunroof often needs new seals or a motor. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Plug-in hybrid charge port.** PHEV: open the charge port flap and check the socket is clean and undamaged, with no corrosion on the pins. A corroded port can mean the car hasn't been charged properly or at all. (Negotiate) ### Test Drive - [ ] **Automatic gearbox.** Drive from a stop and through normal gear changes, feeling for any judder, hesitation or rough, delayed shifts. Judder at low speed pulling away is a warning sign of gearbox wear. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Steering feel.** Drive at a steady speed on a straight road and check the car tracks straight without wandering or pulling to one side. Pulling to one side can mean worn suspension or alignment issues. (Negotiate) - [ ] **4MATIC on full lock.** AWD (4MATIC): in a car park, drive slowly on full steering lock in both directions and listen for clunking or juddering. Juddering on tight turns suggests the all-wheel-drive coupling is binding. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Plug-in hybrid handover.** PHEV: pull away on electric power alone, then let the petrol engine join in, feeling for a smooth handover with no surging. A jerky handover can mean a hybrid system fault. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Brakes.** Brake firmly from a safe speed and check the car stops straight with a firm pedal and no grinding or pulsing. A pulsing pedal often means warped discs that need replacing. (Safety critical) ### Documentation - [ ] **Service history.** Check the logbook or digital service record is stamped on time with matching receipts, and look for any mention of drivetrain or electrical work. Gaps in the history can hide deferred maintenance. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Roadworthy certificate.** Confirm a current roadworthy certificate is supplied if your state requires one on sale, and that its details match the car. ## Stay Safe Never go under a car held up only by a jack, and never open the radiator or coolant cap on a hot engine. Keep hands, hair and loose clothing clear of fans and belts when the engine is running, and do checks under the bonnet with it switched off where you can. On the test drive, hold a current licence, confirm the car is registered and insured, obey road rules, and only brake hard when the road behind is clear. Meet in a safe, public-facing place, take someone with you, and don't carry large amounts of cash to a viewing. ## Disclaimer Shufti is not affiliated with or endorsed by Mercedes-Benz; Mercedes-Benz and GLC are trademarks of Mercedes-Benz Group AG. Figures are counts from Shufti's analysis of official records and published reports, not a statement that any particular vehicle is affected. This checklist is general information only and is not professional, mechanical, legal or financial advice. It covers common checks, not every possible fault, and a car can pass every item here and still have problems. It is not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection by a qualified mechanic, which is worth considering before you buy, especially if anything tagged Safety critical turns up. Repair costs vary widely; get your own quotes. Roadworthy, registration and transfer rules differ by state, so check with your state road authority. Private sales generally don't come with the consumer guarantees that apply when you buy from a dealer. You use this checklist at your own risk and, to the extent permitted by law, Shufti accepts no liability for any loss, damage or injury arising from its use. ## Buying a Used Mercedes-Benz GLC: Questions Answered ### Is a used Mercedes-Benz GLC reliable? It depends more on the particular car than the badge: how it was driven, loaded and serviced. Work through the commonly reported problems above, read the service history for servicing done on time, and run a PPSR check. ### Which Mercedes-Benz GLC years should I avoid? No single Mercedes-Benz GLC year stands out as one to avoid. Newer ones usually have fewer kilometres and less wear, and the newest may still have some new-car warranty left. Whatever the year, a car's condition, service history and recalls tell you more than its build date, and Shufti looks up the reported faults and recalls for the exact car from its listing. This checklist covers the X253 (2016–2022) and X254 (2023 on) Mercedes-Benz GLC. Problems reported across them include oil leaks, automatic gearbox shudder and front-end judder and tyre wear. ### How many kilometres is too many for a used Mercedes-Benz GLC? Kilometres matter less than how the car was driven and serviced. A high-kilometre SUV with a full service history can be a better buy than a low-kilometre one that's missed services, done short trips or been used for rideshare. Check the history for regular servicing, and on a hybrid ask for a battery health check. ### Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a used Mercedes-Benz GLC? It's most worth it on a car where a hidden fault could be costly. All-wheel-drive and hybrid systems can hide faults a visual check won't show, so ask for the service records for them and watch for warning lights on the test drive. Either way, start by checking the car yourself with this checklist, so you know what to look for and whether it's worth paying a mechanic to see. See Pre-purchase car inspection: what it checks and costs (https://shufti.com.au/guides/used-car-inspection-options) ### How do I check a used Mercedes-Benz GLC for money owing or a write-off? Run a PPSR check with the car's VIN on ppsr.gov.au (https://www.ppsr.gov.au/). It shows whether there's finance owing and whether the car has been reported stolen or written off. Run it on the day you pay. See What a PPSR check covers and what it doesn't (https://shufti.com.au/guides/what-is-a-ppsr-check) ### How do I check recalls on a used Mercedes-Benz GLC? Search the government's Vehicle Recalls site for the Mercedes-Benz GLC (https://www.vehiclerecalls.gov.au/recalls/browse-all-recalls?search=Mercedes-Benz%20GLC). Each notice says which models and build dates it covers and what the fault is. A recall on record doesn't tell you whether the work was done on a particular car, so ask the seller for proof, or ask a Mercedes-Benz dealer to check the VIN. --- Shufti is an Australian used car inspection app for iPhone and Android that tailors the inspection to the exact car you're looking at. It is not affiliated with Shufti Pro, the identity verification (KYC) company. From the listing link, it builds every check around that car's make, model and year, odometer reading and the seller's description. It runs PPSR and government recall checks, crosschecks a database of more than 3 million recalls and owner complaints, flags problems from your photos and audio, plans a test drive, produces a shareable report with repair cost estimates, and coaches you through the negotiation. A Tailored check costs $24.99, or $49.99 for three, including PPSR and recall checks. A mechanic's pre-purchase inspection costs $250–350. To start, Shufti's General inspection guide is free: pick the car's make and model, and it takes you through the checks that matter for that model, on your phone. There's a guide for popular models, and one for every type of car. Made by Frontpoint Digital Pty Ltd (ABN 23 669 870 366), Melbourne, Australia. Contact: hello@shufti.com.au. Download: [App Store](https://apps.apple.com/au/app/shufti-used-car-inspection/id6795718336?pt=129235165&ct=Website%20guide&mt=8), [Google Play](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=au.shufti.shufti_app&referrer=utm_source%3Dshufti.com.au%26utm_medium%3Dwebsite%26utm_campaign%3DWebsite%2520guide%26utm_content%3Dllms%26utm_term%3D%252Fllms.txt).