# What to Look For When Buying a Used Mitsubishi Lancer > What to check on a used Lancer, what a problem looks like, and when to walk away. Covers: CJ sedan (2007–2017), CJ Sportback (2008–2017). Last updated: 8 October 2026. Web page: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-mitsubishi-lancer-inspection-checklist. Printable PDF: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-mitsubishi-lancer-inspection-checklist.pdf. ## Common Problems on a Used Mitsubishi Lancer The most commonly reported problems on a used Mitsubishi Lancer are judder, surging or whine from the CVT automatic, and faded or peeling paint on the roof, bonnet and boot. On a Ralliart, check the dual-clutch automatic, and for tunes and hard driving. ### CVT Automatic Problems Many Lancers use a CVT automatic, which uses a belt between two pulleys instead of fixed gears. A worn CVT can judder, surge or whine, and the fluid needs changing on schedule, which owners often skip. On the test drive, accelerate gently from a stop and then firmly up a hill. Feel for a shudder as you pull away, revs rising without the car speeding up to match, surging at steady speeds, and listen for a whine that grows with speed. Any warning light or the car going into a limp mode is a bad sign. Ask when the CVT fluid was last changed and whether the gearbox has ever been repaired or replaced, with receipts. A CVT replacement is one of the most expensive repairs on the car, so if it shows any of these signs, walk away or have a specialist check it. ### Faded or Peeling Paint Years of Australian sun break down the clear coat on a car's flat surfaces. On many older Lancers, the roof, bonnet and boot fade, go chalky or start peeling, especially on cars parked outside. In daylight, look along the roof, bonnet and boot at a low angle for dull, chalky or peeling patches. Darker colours often show it first. It's cosmetic, but the only proper fix is a respray of each affected panel, which isn't cheap. Price it into your offer. ### Rust on Older Cars Older Lancers can rust, especially the wheel arches, sills and the bottoms of the doors and boot lid. Surface rust is common and fixable, but rust that has eaten through the metal weakens the body, and once it starts it spreads. Check the wheel arches, sills, door bottoms and boot lid in daylight, and run your fingers along the inside lip of each wheel arch for bubbling or flaking. Underneath, look at the floor and around the suspension mounts, and be wary of fresh black coating in one spot, which can hide rust or repairs. Small spots of surface rust are worth a little off the price. Rust holes, or rust near the suspension mounts or sills, mean expensive repairs, so have a mechanic check it or walk away. ### Low-Speed Judder from the Dual-Clutch Automatic (DCT) Some Lancers have a dual-clutch automatic (DCT), which works like two manual gearboxes with computer-controlled clutches. On the Lancer, it's fitted to the Ralliart. It's quick and efficient once moving, but at walking pace the clutches have to slip, and as they wear or overheat in stop-start traffic, take-offs turn juddery and hesitant. Test it where it struggles: crawl in traffic, pull away gently from a stop, and reverse up a slope or driveway. Shuddering, hesitation before it moves, jerky changes in low gears or a warning on the dash are all signs of trouble. A slight hesitation that's smooth once moving is normal for this kind of gearbox. Ask whether the DCT has had any repairs or software updates, with receipts. Clutch or control-unit repairs are expensive, so if it judders, have a mechanic check it or price the repair into your offer. ## Which Mitsubishi Lancer Years to Avoid? No Mitsubishi Lancer year is one to avoid outright. Which problems a particular car has depends on its generation, its engine and how it was used, so judge the one in front of you rather than the year alone, starting with its recalls and reported faults (Shufti looks these up from the listing). - **CJ sedan (2007–2017).** Most have done enough kilometres for wear items to come due: check the service history for regular servicing, and whether tyres, brakes and the battery need replacing. - **CJ Sportback (2008–2017).** Most have done enough kilometres for wear items to come due: check the service history for regular servicing, and whether tyres, brakes and the battery need replacing. ## Mitsubishi Lancer Inspection Checklist Tick it if it's fine. Cross it if it isn't, and note what you found so you can price it into your offer. - Safety critical: Affects how safely it drives or protects you in a crash. Best to have a mechanic check it before you buy. - Negotiate: Costs money to fix, from wear to major repairs. Get a quote and take it off the price. ### Before You Go - [ ] **Get the VIN and rego** before you travel. A seller who won't share them is a red flag on its own. - [ ] **Know the gearbox:** manual, CVT automatic or, on the Ralliart, a dual-clutch auto. Each has its own check in the test drive section. - [ ] **Ask how it was used:** private, ex-fleet, rideshare or a first car? For a Ralliart, ask about track days and tunes. - [ ] **Ask for the engine to be cold,** go in daylight, and bring a torch, paper towel and a friend. ### Exterior - [ ] **Panels and paint.** Uneven gaps, mismatched colour or overspray on seals and trim mean crash repair. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Paint on the roof, bonnet and boot.** Faded or peeling clear coat is common on older cars left in the sun. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Hail and dents.** Look along the roof and bonnet at a low angle to the light for small dimples. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Bumpers and wheels.** Parking scrapes, cracked bumper tabs and kerbed alloys. A badly kerbed wheel can be bent. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Lights and glass.** All lights work; windscreen free of chips in the driver's view. Hazy, yellowed headlight lenses cut light output. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Rust** on older cars: wheel arches, sills and the bottom of the doors and boot lid. (Negotiate) - [ ] **VIN plate** (in a door frame or under the bonnet) is there, untouched, and matches the papers. ### Under the Bonnet - [ ] **Engine oil** between the dipstick marks, brown not black. Old, dark oil means servicing has been skipped. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Coolant** at the mark and brightly coloured. Rusty or oily coolant, or regular top-ups, needs a mechanic. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Brake fluid** (small tank at the back of the engine bay) is clear to light amber, not dark. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Belts, hoses and battery.** No cracked belts or swollen hoses; clean battery terminals and a date sticker. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Leaks.** Wet oil on the engine is a leak. A freshly degreased engine on an older car can be hiding one. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Ralliart: modifications.** Aftermarket intake, a loud "whoosh" valve or an extra box wired into the engine mean it's been tuned. - [ ] **Cold start.** Starts easily and settles to a smooth idle. A rattle for the first few seconds, or smoke, needs a mechanic. (Negotiate) ### Underbody and Wheels - [ ] **Tyre tread** above the wear bars, worn evenly. Wear on one edge only means the wheels are out of line. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Tyre age.** The 4-digit code on the side is the week and year made (2319 = week 23, 2019). Over ~6 years: budget for new ones. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Rust and crash repairs.** Rust on the floor or around the suspension; bent metal, fresh welds or new black coating in one spot. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Drips** under the car, and oil stains where it's normally parked. Ralliart: no oil leaking from the rear axle. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Suspension.** Push down on each corner: it should bounce back once and settle. Oily shock absorbers leak. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Brakes.** Deep grooves, a raised edge or blue-tinged discs (overheated from hard driving). (Negotiate) - [ ] **Exhaust.** Heavy rust, holes or loose heat shields. Aftermarket systems can be too loud to be legal. (Negotiate) ### Interior and Electrics - [ ] **Warning lights.** Key to "on": every dash light comes on, then goes out once running. An airbag, brake, engine or gearbox warning that stays on needs explaining. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Water leaks.** Damp carpet, a wet boot floor or a stained headlining. Lift the boot floor. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Wear matches the kilometres.** Steering wheel, gear knob, pedals and driver's seat bolster. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Seatbelts** pull out fully, retract and latch, with no fraying. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Air con** blows cold within a minute or two, without a musty smell; heater gets hot. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Electrics.** Stereo or screen, Bluetooth, windows, mirrors and central locking. Count the keys. (Negotiate) ### Test Drive - [ ] **CVT automatic.** Smooth, steady pull with no judder, surging, slipping or loud whine. Ask when its fluid was changed. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Dual-clutch auto (Ralliart).** Smooth take-off with no judder, jerk or clunk, including crawling in traffic. Judder or hesitation at low speed is a warning sign. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Manual.** In 4th at 50 km/h, floor it: if revs rise faster than speed, the clutch is slipping. Gears go in without crunching. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Engine.** Pulls smoothly with no stutter, hesitation or smoke. Turbo: no loud whistle or sudden power loss. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Brakes.** Firm pedal; stops straight with no pulling, pulsing or grinding. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Steering and suspension.** Drives straight; no knocks over bumps. A hum that grows with speed is often a wheel bearing. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Afterwards,** check for new drips, a steady temperature gauge and no hot smells. (Negotiate) ### Documentation - [ ] **Seller's ID** matches the rego papers, and the VIN matches on the papers and VIN plate. - [ ] **Service history.** Logbook stamped on time, with receipts. Ask when the CVT or dual-clutch fluid was last changed, if ever. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Gearbox repairs.** Ask whether the gearbox has been repaired or replaced, and get the paperwork. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Modifications in writing.** Tunes, lowering and exhausts, with engineering sign-off where your state requires it. - [ ] **Fleet or rideshare records.** Ex-fleet cars are often well maintained; ask for the log. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Rego and roadworthy.** Rego checked online; roadworthy supplied if your state requires one on sale. (Negotiate) ## Stay Safe Never go under a car held up only by a jack, and never open the radiator or coolant cap on a hot engine. Keep hands, hair and loose clothing clear of fans and belts when the engine is running, and do checks under the bonnet with it switched off where you can. On the test drive, hold a current licence, confirm the car is registered and insured, obey road rules, and only brake hard when the road behind is clear. Meet in a safe, public-facing place, take someone with you, and don't carry large amounts of cash to a viewing. ## Disclaimer Shufti is not affiliated with or endorsed by Mitsubishi; Mitsubishi, Lancer and Ralliart are trademarks of Mitsubishi Motors Corporation. Figures are counts from Shufti's analysis of official records and published reports, not a statement that any particular vehicle is affected. This checklist is general information only and is not professional, mechanical, legal or financial advice. It covers common checks, not every possible fault, and a car can pass every item here and still have problems. It is not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection by a qualified mechanic, which is worth considering before you buy, especially if anything tagged Safety critical turns up. Repair costs vary widely; get your own quotes. Roadworthy, registration and transfer rules differ by state, so check with your state road authority. Private sales generally don't come with the consumer guarantees that apply when you buy from a dealer. You use this checklist at your own risk and, to the extent permitted by law, Shufti accepts no liability for any loss, damage or injury arising from its use. ## Buying a Used Mitsubishi Lancer: Questions Answered ### Is a used Mitsubishi Lancer reliable? It depends more on the particular car than the badge: how it was driven, loaded and serviced. Work through the commonly reported problems above, read the service history for servicing done on time, and run a PPSR check. ### Which Mitsubishi Lancer years should I avoid? No Mitsubishi Lancer year is one to avoid outright. Which problems a particular car has depends on its generation, its engine and how it was used, so judge the one in front of you rather than the year alone, starting with its recalls and reported faults (Shufti looks these up from the listing). This checklist covers the CJ sedan (2007–2017) and CJ Sportback (2008–2017) Mitsubishi Lancer. Problems reported across them include CVT automatic judder, faded or peeling paint and rust on older cars. ### How many kilometres is too many for a used Mitsubishi Lancer? Kilometres matter less than how the car was driven and serviced. A high-kilometre car with a full service history can be a better buy than a low-kilometre one that's missed services or spent years on short trips. Check the history for regular oil changes, and find out whether any timing belt replacement is due, as it's a costly job. ### Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a used Mitsubishi Lancer? It's worth it if you can. A mechanic can spot hidden crash repairs and gearbox problems that are easy to miss on a short test drive. Most buyers don't book one, though, so whatever you decide, check the car thoroughly yourself with this checklist first. See Is a pre-purchase inspection worth it? (https://shufti.com.au/guides/is-a-pre-purchase-inspection-worth-it) ### How do I check a used Mitsubishi Lancer for money owing or a write-off? Run a PPSR check with the car's VIN. It shows whether there's finance owing and whether the car has been reported stolen or written off, and costs $2. Run it on the day you pay. See What a PPSR check covers and what it doesn't (https://shufti.com.au/guides/what-is-a-ppsr-check) --- Shufti is an Australian used car inspection app for iPhone and Android that tailors the inspection to the exact car you're looking at. It is not affiliated with Shufti Pro, the identity verification (KYC) company. From the listing link, it builds every check around that car's make, model and year, odometer reading and the seller's description. It runs PPSR and government recall checks, crosschecks a database of more than 3 million recalls and owner complaints, flags problems from your photos and audio, plans a test drive, produces a shareable report with repair cost estimates, and coaches you through the negotiation. A check costs $24.99, or $49.99 for three, including PPSR and recall checks. A mechanic's pre-purchase inspection costs $250–350. Made by Frontpoint Digital Pty Ltd (ABN 23 669 870 366), Melbourne, Australia. Contact: hello@shufti.com.au. Download: [App Store](https://apps.apple.com/au/app/shufti-used-car-inspection/id6795718336?pt=129235165&ct=Website%20guide&mt=8), [Google Play](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=au.shufti.shufti_app&referrer=utm_source%3Dshufti.com.au%26utm_medium%3Dwebsite%26utm_campaign%3DWebsite%2520guide%26utm_content%3Dllms).