# What to Look For When Buying a Used Mitsubishi Pajero > What to check on a used Pajero 4x4, what a problem looks like, and when to walk away. Covers: NS (2006–2008), NT (2008–2011), NW (2011–2014), NX (2015–2021). Last updated: 13 October 2026. Web page: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-mitsubishi-pajero-inspection-checklist. Printable PDF: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-mitsubishi-pajero-inspection-checklist.pdf. ## Common Problems on a Used Mitsubishi Pajero The most commonly reported problems on a used Mitsubishi Pajero are carbon build-up and a clogged exhaust gas valve (EGR) on diesel versions, a worn timing chain, surging or sudden power loss, and oil leaks from the rear diff. Many have towed caravans or done outback trips, so how it was used matters as much as the kilometres. ### Carbon Build-Up and a Clogged EGR Valve Diesel engines send some exhaust back into the intake through a valve (EGR) to cut emissions. Over time soot and oil vapour bake into a thick carbon layer in the valve and intake, choking the engine. Short trips and skipped services make it worse. On the test drive, feel for flat spots, hesitation and poor pulling power, and watch for black smoke under load. Under the bonnet, look for heavy oily soot around the intake pipes, and ask if it's ever been cleaned out. An intake and EGR clean is a moderate bill; left too long, it can lead to bigger repairs. Ask for receipts for any clean, and price one in if it's never been done. ### Timing Chain Wear The timing chain keeps the engine's moving parts in step. On a high-kilometre or poorly serviced Pajero, the chain can stretch and its guides wear, and a chain that jumps or breaks can wreck the engine. Ask for the engine to be cold, and listen as it starts: a rattle from the front of the engine for the first few seconds, or a constant ticking or slapping, is a warning sign. Check for oil and coolant weeping at the front of the engine too. Ask whether the timing chain or guides have been replaced, with receipts. If it rattles, have a mechanic check it before you buy; replacing a timing chain is an expensive job. ### Surging or Sudden Power Loss Owners report diesel Pajeros that surge or hunt at idle, or suddenly lose power, often from a sticking fuel-pump control valve or turbo control. The car may go into a reduced-power mode to protect itself. Let it idle for a few minutes and watch the rev needle: it should sit steady. On the test drive, accelerate firmly up a hill and hold a steady speed. Any surging, stalling, sudden power loss or a warning light needs explaining. Some fixes are cheap, others mean a turbo or fuel-system repair. Ask what work has been done, with receipts, and have a diesel mechanic check it if it surges. ### Rear Diff Oil Leaks Oil can leak from where the rear axle shafts leave the rear diff, the round housing in the middle of the rear axle. It's more likely on Pajeros that have towed heavy loads. With a torch, look at the rear diff and the backs of the rear wheels for wet oil or caked grime. Listen for a whine or clunk from the rear on the test drive. A leak caught early is a cheap seal job; run dry, the diff can be damaged. Price it into your offer. ## Which Mitsubishi Pajero Years to Avoid? No Mitsubishi Pajero year is one to avoid outright. Which problems a particular car has depends on its generation, its engine and how it was used, so judge the one in front of you rather than the year alone, starting with its recalls and reported faults (Shufti looks these up from the listing). - **NS (2006–2008).** Every one is now over 10 years old, so condition and history count for more than the year: look hard for rust, worn suspension and leaks, and check whether a timing belt (if it has one) has been replaced. - **NT (2008–2011).** Every one is now over 10 years old, so condition and history count for more than the year: look hard for rust, worn suspension and leaks, and check whether a timing belt (if it has one) has been replaced. - **NW (2011–2014).** Every one is now over 10 years old, so condition and history count for more than the year: look hard for rust, worn suspension and leaks, and check whether a timing belt (if it has one) has been replaced. - **NX (2015–2021).** Most have done enough kilometres for wear items to come due: check the service history for regular servicing, and whether tyres, brakes and the battery need replacing. ## Mitsubishi Pajero Inspection Checklist Tick it if it's fine. Cross it if it isn't, and note what you found so you can price it into your offer. - Safety critical: Affects how safely it drives or protects you in a crash. Best to have a mechanic check it before you buy. - Negotiate: Costs money to fix, from wear to major repairs. Get a quote and take it off the price. ### Before You Go - [ ] **Get the VIN and rego** before you travel. A seller who won't share them is a red flag on its own. - [ ] **Ask how it was used:** towing a caravan (how heavy, how far), outback trips, beach driving or school runs. Heavy towing and corrugated roads wear a 4x4 much faster than suburban kilometres. - [ ] **Ask for a list of modifications** and their paperwork: lift kit, higher load limit (GVM upgrade), bigger tyres, bullbar, roof rack, long-range tank, engine tune. - [ ] **Ask for the engine to be cold,** and bring a torch, gloves and something to lie on. ### Exterior - [ ] **Panels and paint.** Uneven gaps or paint on trim (crash repair), scrapes low on the body (off-roading), hail dimples on the roof and bonnet. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Side-opening rear door.** It shouldn't sag, and should close cleanly. The spare wheel's weight on the door wears the hinges, more so with a bigger tyre fitted. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Roof and rack.** Dents, cracked paint or leaks around rack mounts. An overloaded roof rack on corrugations can crack the roof. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Bullbar** is made to work with the airbags and is solidly mounted. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Outback wear.** Stone-chipped paint and windscreen, cracked lights, red dust in door seals and the engine bay. (Negotiate) - [ ] **VIN plate** (in a door frame or under the bonnet) is there, untouched, and matches the papers. ### Under the Bonnet - [ ] **Coolant** at the mark and brightly coloured. Rusty or oily coolant, or regular top-ups, needs a mechanic. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Oil level** between the marks, not above the top one, and not smelling of fuel. Old, dark or thick oil means servicing has been skipped. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Turbo (diesel).** Oil inside the big air pipes, a loud siren-like whistle, or blue smoke. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Tunes and deletes.** An extra box wired into the engine, or emissions parts removed. Removing emissions parts is illegal and can void insurance. - [ ] **Water crossings.** Silt or mud in the air filter box or around the engine. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Extra wiring** for a second battery, fridge, lights or UHF radio is neat and fused. Messy wiring causes faults and fires. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Cold start.** Fires in a couple of seconds and settles to a smooth idle. Heavy knocking, rough running or smoke that won't clear needs a mechanic. (Negotiate) ### Underbody and 4x4 - [ ] **Frame rails** under the body. Kinks, cracks or fresh welds, especially near the towbar and rear suspension. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Beach use.** Sand or salt packed into the underbody rusts it from the inside. Surface rust is normal; flaking or holes are not. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Suspension.** Oily shock absorbers, sagging rear, cracked mounts. Lifted or heavily loaded 4x4s wear these faster. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Front end.** Split rubber boots behind the wheels (grease sprayed around) and loose steering parts. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Oil leaks** from the axles, transfer case and drive parts underneath. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Underbody guards and towbar.** Dented guards show hard off-road use; a worn tow ball means lots of heavy towing. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Tyres** match the sticker in the door frame (or are engineered), wear evenly and are under ~6 years old. Check the spare too. (Negotiate) ### Interior and Electrics - [ ] **Warning lights.** Key to "on": engine, ABS, airbag and 4WD lights come on, then go out once running. A light that stays on needs explaining. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Water and dust.** Damp carpet, a stained headlining or fine dust inside. Check holes drilled for racks, a snorkel or aerials. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Third-row seats** fold into the floor and lock; belts work. Worn cargo area and seat trim show a hard family life. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Seatbelts** pull out fully, retract and latch, with no fraying. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Wear matches the kilometres.** Seat bolster, steering wheel, carpet under mats; screw holes from removed radios. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Air con** blows cold front and rear; heater gets hot. Count the keys and test the remotes. (Negotiate) ### Test Drive - [ ] **Automatic gearbox.** Smooth changes, no slipping or thump into gear. Towing wears autos; ask when the fluid was changed. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Power and smoke.** Pulls strongly, with no flat spots, sudden power loss or black smoke. (Negotiate) - [ ] **4WD.** On gravel or grass, try each 4WD setting, then low range: no clunks, and the 4WD lights stop flashing. A light that keeps flashing means it hasn't engaged. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Steering and brakes.** No wandering at highway speed, or shaking through the brake pedal. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Knocks.** No clunks over bumps or when you take off and stop. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Noises.** A hum that grows with speed (wheel bearing), or a whine as you accelerate. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Afterwards,** check for warning lights, a steady temperature gauge and new drips underneath. (Negotiate) ### Documentation - [ ] **Seller's ID** matches the rego papers, and the VIN matches on the papers and VIN plate. - [ ] **Modification paperwork:** certificates for any load-limit (GVM) upgrade, lift or bigger tyres your state requires, and the insurer told. - [ ] **Tunes and emissions.** Ask directly whether it's been tuned or had emissions parts removed, and get the answer in writing. - [ ] **Service history.** Oil and fuel-filter changes on time. Heavy towing should mean extra gearbox and diff servicing. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Rego and roadworthy.** Rego checked online; roadworthy supplied if your state requires one on sale. (Negotiate) ## Stay Safe Never go under a car held up only by a jack, and never open the radiator or coolant cap on a hot engine. Keep hands, hair and loose clothing clear of fans and belts when the engine is running, and do checks under the bonnet with it switched off where you can. On the test drive, hold a current licence, confirm the car is registered and insured, obey road rules, and only brake hard when the road behind is clear. Meet in a safe, public-facing place, take someone with you, and don't carry large amounts of cash to a viewing. ## Disclaimer Shufti is not affiliated with or endorsed by Mitsubishi; Mitsubishi and Pajero are trademarks of Mitsubishi Motors Corporation. Figures are counts from Shufti's analysis of official records and published reports, not a statement that any particular vehicle is affected. This checklist is general information only and is not professional, mechanical, legal or financial advice. It covers common checks, not every possible fault, and a car can pass every item here and still have problems. It is not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection by a qualified mechanic, which is worth considering before you buy, especially if anything tagged Safety critical turns up. Repair costs vary widely; get your own quotes. Roadworthy, registration and transfer rules differ by state, so check with your state road authority. Private sales generally don't come with the consumer guarantees that apply when you buy from a dealer. You use this checklist at your own risk and, to the extent permitted by law, Shufti accepts no liability for any loss, damage or injury arising from its use. ## Buying a Used Mitsubishi Pajero: Questions Answered ### Is a used Mitsubishi Pajero reliable? It depends more on the particular car than the badge: how it was driven, loaded and serviced. Work through the commonly reported problems above, read the service history for servicing done on time, and run a PPSR check. ### Which Mitsubishi Pajero years should I avoid? No Mitsubishi Pajero year is one to avoid outright. Which problems a particular car has depends on its generation, its engine and how it was used, so judge the one in front of you rather than the year alone, starting with its recalls and reported faults (Shufti looks these up from the listing). This checklist covers the NS (2006–2008), NT (2008–2011), NW (2011–2014) and NX (2015–2021) Mitsubishi Pajero. Problems reported across them include carbon build-up and a clogged EGR valve, timing chain wear, surging or sudden power loss and rear diff oil leaks. ### How many kilometres is too many for a used Mitsubishi Pajero? Kilometres matter less than how the car was driven and serviced. A high-kilometre SUV with a full service history can be a better buy than a low-kilometre one that's missed services, done short trips or been used for rideshare. Check the history for regular servicing, and on a hybrid ask for a battery health check. ### Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a used Mitsubishi Pajero? It's worth it if you can. All-wheel-drive and hybrid systems can hide faults that only a mechanic's tools will show. Most buyers don't book one, though, so whatever you decide, check the car thoroughly yourself with this checklist first. See Is a pre-purchase inspection worth it? (https://shufti.com.au/guides/is-a-pre-purchase-inspection-worth-it) ### How do I check a used Mitsubishi Pajero for money owing or a write-off? Run a PPSR check with the car's VIN. It shows whether there's finance owing and whether the car has been reported stolen or written off, and costs $2. Run it on the day you pay. See What a PPSR check covers and what it doesn't (https://shufti.com.au/guides/what-is-a-ppsr-check) --- Shufti is an Australian used car inspection app for iPhone and Android that tailors the inspection to the exact car you're looking at. It is not affiliated with Shufti Pro, the identity verification (KYC) company. From the listing link, it builds every check around that car's make, model and year, odometer reading and the seller's description. It runs PPSR and government recall checks, crosschecks a database of more than 3 million recalls and owner complaints, flags problems from your photos and audio, plans a test drive, produces a shareable report with repair cost estimates, and coaches you through the negotiation. A check costs $24.99, or $49.99 for three, including PPSR and recall checks. A mechanic's pre-purchase inspection costs $250–350. Made by Frontpoint Digital Pty Ltd (ABN 23 669 870 366), Melbourne, Australia. Contact: hello@shufti.com.au. 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