# What to Look For When Buying a Used Mitsubishi Pajero Sport > What to check on a used Pajero Sport 4x4, what a problem looks like, and when to walk away. Covers: QE (2015–2019), QF (2020–2025). Last updated: 8 October 2026. Web page: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-mitsubishi-pajero-sport-inspection-checklist. Printable PDF: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-mitsubishi-pajero-sport-inspection-checklist.pdf. ## Common Problems on a Used Mitsubishi Pajero Sport The most commonly reported problems on a used Mitsubishi Pajero Sport are exhaust filter (DPF) trouble and a rising oil level on 4x4s used mostly for short trips, and oily soot building up in the engine's air pipes. Many tow caravans and go off-road, so check for towing wear and undocumented modifications. ### Exhaust Filter (DPF) Trouble and a Rising Oil Level A diesel Pajero Sport has a filter in the exhaust, the DPF, that traps soot and burns it off as the 4x4 drives. The burn-off needs a hot exhaust, so it happens on longer runs. A 4x4 that has mostly done short trips around town can keep starting a burn-off and never finishing it, and the filter slowly clogs. As the burn-offs are cut short, diesel washes into the engine oil, so the oil level rises. Check the oil isn't above the top mark and doesn't smell of diesel, ask how often the exhaust filter warning has come on, and watch for lost power on the drive. Heavy black soot at the tailpipe can mean the filter is damaged or has been removed. Ask how the 4x4 was driven and whether the filter has ever been cleaned or replaced. A replacement is expensive, so price it in. If the filter has been removed, walk away or get it put back: driving without it is illegal and can void insurance. ### Oily Soot in the Engine's Air Pipes A diesel Pajero Sport feeds some exhaust gas back into the engine to cut emissions. That gas carries soot, which mixes with oil mist from the engine's breather and builds up as a thick, oily sludge in the air pipes and intake. Over time it chokes the engine's airflow, causing lost power, rough running and more smoke. Under the bonnet, look for thick, oily black soot around the air pipes and the joins in the intake. On the drive, feel for flat spots or power loss, and watch for black smoke under load. Ask whether the intake has ever been cleaned out, with receipts. A clean-out is a mechanic's job, so price it in if the build-up is heavy. Some owners fit a catch can to cut the oil mist, which is fine when it's neatly done. ### Towing, Corrugations and Roof Loads A Pajero Sport that has towed a heavy caravan, done outback trips or carried a loaded roof rack has worked far harder than its kilometres suggest. Corrugated roads shake parts loose, heavy towing wears the gearbox and chassis, and a heavy roof load on corrugations can crack the roof. Check the roof around the rack mounts for dents, cracked paint and leaks inside. Underneath, look at the chassis near the towbar and rear suspension for kinks, cracks or fresh welds. Red dust in the door seals, stone-chipped paint and a well-worn tow ball all point to a hard life. Ask how the car was used, how heavy the towing was and how far, and ask for the paperwork for any modifications. Heavy use should mean extra gearbox and diff servicing. A hard-worked car is worth a 4WD mechanic's inspection before you buy. ### Undocumented Modifications Many Pajero Sports have been fitted with lift kits, bigger tyres, bullbars, roof racks, GVM upgrades or engine tunes. Done properly and certified, most are fine. Undocumented changes can make a 4x4 unroadworthy or uninsurable, and a tune can mean the exhaust filter has been removed, which is illegal. Ask the seller for a list of every modification and the paperwork for each, and check that the insurer has been told about them. Ask directly whether the 4x4 has been tuned or had emissions parts removed, and get the answer in writing. ## Which Mitsubishi Pajero Sport Years to Avoid? No Mitsubishi Pajero Sport year is one to avoid outright. Which problems a particular car has depends on its generation, its engine and how it was used, so judge the one in front of you rather than the year alone, starting with its recalls and reported faults (Shufti looks these up from the listing). - **QE (2015–2019).** Most have done enough kilometres for wear items to come due: check the service history for regular servicing, and whether tyres, brakes and the battery need replacing. - **QF (2020–2025).** Most have done enough kilometres for wear items to come due: check the service history for regular servicing, and whether tyres, brakes and the battery need replacing. ## Mitsubishi Pajero Sport Inspection Checklist Tick it if it's fine. Cross it if it isn't, and note what you found so you can price it into your offer. - Safety critical: Affects how safely it drives or protects you in a crash. Best to have a mechanic check it before you buy. - Negotiate: Costs money to fix, from wear to major repairs. Get a quote and take it off the price. ### Before You Go - [ ] **Get the VIN and rego** before you travel. A seller who won't share them is a red flag on its own. - [ ] **Ask how it was used:** towing a caravan (how heavy, how far), outback trips, beach driving or school runs. Heavy towing and corrugated roads wear a Pajero Sport much faster than suburban kilometres. - [ ] **Ask for a list of modifications** and their paperwork: lift kit, higher load limit (GVM upgrade), bigger tyres, bullbar, roof rack, long-range tank, engine tune. - [ ] **Ask for the engine to be cold,** and bring a torch, gloves and something to lie on. ### Exterior - [ ] **Panels and paint.** Uneven gaps or paint on trim (crash repair), scrapes low on the body (off-roading), hail dimples on the roof and bonnet. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Tailgate** opens, shuts and locks cleanly; a power tailgate (if fitted) runs smoothly. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Roof and rack.** Dents, cracked paint or leaks around rack mounts. An overloaded roof rack on corrugations can crack the roof. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Bullbar** is made to work with the airbags and is solidly mounted. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Outback wear.** Stone-chipped paint and windscreen, cracked lights, red dust in door seals and the engine bay. (Negotiate) - [ ] **VIN plate** (in a door frame or under the bonnet) is there, untouched, and matches the papers. ### Under the Bonnet - [ ] **Coolant** at the mark and brightly coloured. Rusty or oily coolant, or regular top-ups, needs a mechanic. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Oil level** not above the top mark, and not smelling of diesel. A rising level means diesel is getting in, often from short trips interrupting the exhaust filter's self-clean. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Soot.** Thick, oily black soot around the engine's air pipes. Ask if it's ever been cleaned out. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Turbo.** Oil inside the big air pipes, a loud siren-like whistle, or blue smoke. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Tunes and deletes.** An extra box wired into the engine, or the exhaust filter (DPF) removed. Removing emissions parts is illegal and can void insurance. - [ ] **Water crossings.** Silt or mud in the air filter box or around the engine. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Extra wiring** for a second battery, fridge, lights or UHF radio is neat and fused. Messy wiring causes faults and fires. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Cold start.** Fires quickly and settles to a smooth idle. Heavy knocking, rough running or smoke that won't clear needs a diesel mechanic. (Negotiate) ### Underbody and 4x4 - [ ] **Chassis** (the frame under the car). Kinks, cracks or fresh welds, especially near the towbar and rear suspension. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Beach use.** Sand or salt packed into the frame rusts it from the inside. Surface rust is normal; flaking or holes are not. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Suspension.** Oily shock absorbers, a sagging rear or cracked mounts. Bump stops showing heavy contact marks. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Front end.** Split rubber boots behind the wheels (grease sprayed around) and loose steering parts. Worse on lifted 4x4s. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Oil leaks** from the axles, transfer case and drive parts underneath. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Underbody guards and towbar.** Dented guards show hard off-road use; a worn tow ball means lots of heavy towing. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Tyres** match the sticker in the door frame (or are engineered), wear evenly and are under ~6 years old. Check the spare too. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Exhaust filter (DPF)** still fitted, with no white smoke or heavy soot. Ask about any exhaust filter repairs. (Negotiate) ### Interior and Electrics - [ ] **Warning lights.** Key to "on": engine, ABS, airbag and 4WD lights come on, then go out once running. An exhaust filter (DPF) or engine light that stays on needs explaining. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Water and dust.** Damp carpet, a stained headlining or fine dust inside. Check holes drilled for racks, a snorkel or aerials. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Third-row seats** (if fitted) fold and lock; belts work. Worn cargo area and seat trim show a hard family life. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Seatbelts** pull out fully, retract and latch, with no fraying. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Wear matches the kilometres.** Seat bolster, steering wheel, carpet under mats; screw holes from removed radios. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Air con** blows cold front and rear; heater gets hot. Count the keys and test the remotes. (Negotiate) ### Test Drive - [ ] **Automatic gearbox.** Smooth changes, no slipping or thump into gear. Towing wears autos; ask when the fluid was changed. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Power and smoke.** Pulls strongly, with no flat spots, sudden power loss or black smoke. (Negotiate) - [ ] **4WD.** On gravel or grass, work through the 4WD modes and low range: no clunks, and the 4WD lights stop flashing. On part-time 4WD, don't use 4H on dry bitumen. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Steering and brakes.** No wandering at highway speed, or shaking through the brake pedal (common on towing 4x4s). (Safety critical) - [ ] **Body roll and knocks.** Leans evenly both ways in corners; no clunks over bumps. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Noises.** A hum that grows with speed (wheel bearing), or a whine as you accelerate. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Afterwards,** check for an exhaust filter (DPF) warning, a steady temperature gauge and new drips underneath. (Negotiate) ### Documentation - [ ] **Seller's ID** matches the rego papers, and the VIN matches on the papers, VIN plate and chassis. - [ ] **Modification paperwork:** certificates for any load-limit (GVM) upgrade, lift or bigger tyres your state requires, and the insurer told. - [ ] **Tunes and emissions.** Ask directly whether it's been tuned or had emissions parts removed, and get the answer in writing. - [ ] **Service history.** Oil and fuel-filter changes on time. Heavy towing should mean extra gearbox and diff servicing. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Warranty.** A newer Pajero Sport may still be under Mitsubishi's new-car warranty. Check the start date and that servicing kept it valid. ## Stay Safe Never go under a car held up only by a jack, and never open the radiator or coolant cap on a hot engine. Keep hands, hair and loose clothing clear of fans and belts when the engine is running, and do checks under the bonnet with it switched off where you can. On the test drive, hold a current licence, confirm the car is registered and insured, obey road rules, and only brake hard when the road behind is clear. Meet in a safe, public-facing place, take someone with you, and don't carry large amounts of cash to a viewing. ## Disclaimer Shufti is not affiliated with or endorsed by Mitsubishi; Mitsubishi and Pajero Sport are trademarks of Mitsubishi Motors Corporation. Figures are counts from Shufti's analysis of official records and published reports, not a statement that any particular vehicle is affected. This checklist is general information only and is not professional, mechanical, legal or financial advice. It covers common checks, not every possible fault, and a car can pass every item here and still have problems. It is not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection by a qualified mechanic, which is worth considering before you buy, especially if anything tagged Safety critical turns up. Repair costs vary widely; get your own quotes. Roadworthy, registration and transfer rules differ by state, so check with your state road authority. Private sales generally don't come with the consumer guarantees that apply when you buy from a dealer. You use this checklist at your own risk and, to the extent permitted by law, Shufti accepts no liability for any loss, damage or injury arising from its use. ## Buying a Used Mitsubishi Pajero Sport: Questions Answered ### Is a used Mitsubishi Pajero Sport reliable? It depends more on the particular car than the badge: how it was driven, loaded and serviced. Work through the commonly reported problems above, read the service history for servicing done on time, and run a PPSR check. ### Which Mitsubishi Pajero Sport years should I avoid? No Mitsubishi Pajero Sport year is one to avoid outright. Which problems a particular car has depends on its generation, its engine and how it was used, so judge the one in front of you rather than the year alone, starting with its recalls and reported faults (Shufti looks these up from the listing). This checklist covers the QE (2015–2019) and QF (2020–2025) Mitsubishi Pajero Sport. Problems reported across them include exhaust filter (DPF) trouble and a rising oil level, oily soot building up in the engine's air pipes and wear from heavy towing. ### How many kilometres is too many for a used Mitsubishi Pajero Sport? Kilometres matter less than how the car was driven and serviced. A high-kilometre SUV with a full service history can be a better buy than a low-kilometre one that's missed services, done short trips or been used for rideshare. Check the history for regular servicing, and on a hybrid ask for a battery health check. ### Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a used Mitsubishi Pajero Sport? It's worth it if you can. All-wheel-drive and hybrid systems can hide faults that only a mechanic's tools will show. Most buyers don't book one, though, so whatever you decide, check the car thoroughly yourself with this checklist first. See Is a pre-purchase inspection worth it? (https://shufti.com.au/guides/is-a-pre-purchase-inspection-worth-it) ### How do I check a used Mitsubishi Pajero Sport for money owing or a write-off? Run a PPSR check with the car's VIN. It shows whether there's finance owing and whether the car has been reported stolen or written off, and costs $2. Run it on the day you pay. See What a PPSR check covers and what it doesn't (https://shufti.com.au/guides/what-is-a-ppsr-check) --- Shufti is an Australian used car inspection app for iPhone and Android that tailors the inspection to the exact car you're looking at. It is not affiliated with Shufti Pro, the identity verification (KYC) company. From the listing link, it builds every check around that car's make, model and year, odometer reading and the seller's description. It runs PPSR and government recall checks, crosschecks a database of more than 3 million recalls and owner complaints, flags problems from your photos and audio, plans a test drive, produces a shareable report with repair cost estimates, and coaches you through the negotiation. A check costs $24.99, or $49.99 for three, including PPSR and recall checks. A mechanic's pre-purchase inspection costs $250–350. Made by Frontpoint Digital Pty Ltd (ABN 23 669 870 366), Melbourne, Australia. Contact: hello@shufti.com.au. Download: [App Store](https://apps.apple.com/au/app/shufti-used-car-inspection/id6795718336?pt=129235165&ct=Website%20guide&mt=8), [Google Play](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=au.shufti.shufti_app&referrer=utm_source%3Dshufti.com.au%26utm_medium%3Dwebsite%26utm_campaign%3DWebsite%2520guide%26utm_content%3Dllms).