# What to Look For When Buying a Used Nissan Pulsar > What to check on a used Pulsar, sedan or hatch, what a problem looks like, and when to walk away. Covers: B17 sedan (2013–2017), C12 hatch (2013–2017). Last updated: 13 October 2026. Web page: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-nissan-pulsar-inspection-checklist. Printable PDF: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-nissan-pulsar-inspection-checklist.pdf. ## Common Problems on a Used Nissan Pulsar The most commonly reported problems on a used Nissan Pulsar are judder, slipping or failure from the CVT automatic, timing chain wear on some engines, stalling or power loss at low speed, and worn front ball joints. Many were fleet or rental cars, so ask how it was used. ### CVT Automatic Problems Many Pulsars use a CVT automatic, which uses a belt between two pulleys instead of fixed gears. A worn CVT can judder, surge or whine, and the fluid needs changing on schedule, which owners often skip. On the test drive, accelerate gently from a stop and then firmly up a hill. Feel for a shudder as you pull away, revs rising without the car speeding up to match, surging at steady speeds, and listen for a whine that grows with speed. Any warning light or the car going into a limp mode is a bad sign. Ask when the CVT fluid was last changed and whether the gearbox has ever been repaired or replaced, with receipts. A CVT replacement is one of the most expensive repairs on the car, so if it shows any of these signs, walk away or have a specialist check it. ### Timing Chain Wear The timing chain keeps the engine's moving parts in step. On some Pulsar engines, the chain or the part that keeps it tight can wear, and a chain that jumps can wreck the engine. Ask for the engine to be cold, and listen as it starts: a rattle from the engine for the first few seconds is a warning sign. Check for an engine warning light too. Ask whether the timing chain or its tensioner has been replaced, with receipts. If it rattles, have a mechanic check it before you buy; it's an expensive job. ### Stalling or Power Loss at Low Speed Owners report the engine stumbling, losing power or stalling at low speed, such as when slowing for a corner or pulling up at lights. On the test drive, spend time in slow traffic, roll up to a stop and pull away again several times. The engine should idle steadily and never cut out. Check for an engine warning light. Causes range from a dirty throttle to a gearbox fault. Ask what's been done, with receipts, and have a mechanic check it if it stalls. ### Worn Front Ball Joints Ball joints are the pivots that connect the front wheels to the suspension. When they wear, the steering feels loose and the front end knocks over bumps; a joint that fails can let a wheel collapse. On the test drive, listen for knocks or clunks from the front over bumps and when turning at low speed, and feel for vague steering. With the car parked, rock each front wheel top to bottom: there should be no play. Ball joints aren't expensive to replace, but they're a safety item. Get a quote and take it off the price. ## Which Nissan Pulsar Years to Avoid? No Nissan Pulsar year is one to avoid outright. Which problems a particular car has depends on its generation, its engine and how it was used, so judge the one in front of you rather than the year alone, starting with its recalls and reported faults (Shufti looks these up from the listing). - **B17 sedan (2013–2017).** Most have done enough kilometres for wear items to come due: check the service history for regular servicing, and whether tyres, brakes and the battery need replacing. - **C12 hatch (2013–2017).** Most have done enough kilometres for wear items to come due: check the service history for regular servicing, and whether tyres, brakes and the battery need replacing. ## Nissan Pulsar Inspection Checklist Tick it if it's fine. Cross it if it isn't, and note what you found so you can price it into your offer. - Safety critical: Affects how safely it drives or protects you in a crash. Best to have a mechanic check it before you buy. - Negotiate: Costs money to fix, from wear to major repairs. Get a quote and take it off the price. ### Before You Go - [ ] **Get the VIN and rego** before you travel. A seller who won't share them is a red flag on its own. - [ ] **Know the gearbox:** manual or CVT automatic. Each has its own check in the test drive section. - [ ] **Ask how it was used:** private, ex-rental or fleet; city commuting or long country runs? For an SSS, ask about tunes. - [ ] **Ask for the engine to be cold,** go in daylight, and bring a torch, paper towel and a friend. ### Exterior - [ ] **Panels and paint.** Uneven gaps, mismatched colour or overspray on seals and trim mean crash repair. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Parking knocks.** Scraped bumper corners, dented doors and scuffed mirrors. Check behind small dents for bent metal. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Paint and hail.** Faded or peeling paint on the roof and bonnet; small dimples seen at a low angle to the light. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Ex-fleet signs:** holes in the dash or boot for radios and trackers; decal residue on the doors. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Wheels.** Kerbed alloys or cracked wheel covers. A badly kerbed wheel can be bent, causing vibration. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Lights and glass.** All lights work; windscreen free of chips in the driver's view. Hazy, yellowed headlight lenses cut light output. (Negotiate) - [ ] **VIN plate** (in a door frame or under the bonnet) is there, untouched, and matches the papers. ### Under the Bonnet - [ ] **Engine oil** between the dipstick marks, brown not black. Old, dark oil means servicing has been skipped. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Coolant** at the mark and brightly coloured. Rusty or oily coolant, or regular top-ups, needs a mechanic. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Brake fluid** (small tank at the back of the engine bay) is clear to light amber, not dark. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Belts, hoses and battery.** No cracked belts or swollen hoses; clean battery terminals and a date sticker. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Leaks.** Wet oil on the engine is a leak. A freshly degreased engine on an older car can be hiding one. (Negotiate) - [ ] **SSS: modifications.** Aftermarket intake, a loud "whoosh" valve or an extra box wired into the engine mean it's been tuned. - [ ] **Cold start.** Starts easily and settles to a smooth idle. A rattle for the first few seconds, or smoke, needs a mechanic. (Negotiate) ### Underbody and Wheels - [ ] **Tyre tread** above the wear bars, worn evenly. Wear on one edge only means the wheels are out of line, often from hitting kerbs. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Tyre age.** The 4-digit code on the side is the week and year made (2319 = week 23, 2019). Over ~6 years: budget for new ones. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Rust and crash repairs.** Rust on the floor or around the suspension; bent metal, fresh welds or new black coating in one spot. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Drips** under the car, and oil stains where it's normally parked. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Suspension.** Push down on each corner: it should bounce back once and settle. Oily shock absorbers leak. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Brakes.** Deep grooves or a raised edge on the discs mean they're due. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Exhaust.** Heavy rust, holes or loose heat shields that rattle. (Negotiate) ### Interior and Electrics - [ ] **Warning lights.** Key to "on": every dash light comes on, then goes out once running. An airbag, brake or engine light that stays on needs explaining. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Water leaks.** Damp carpet, a wet boot floor or a stained headlining. Lift the boot floor. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Wear matches the kilometres.** Steering wheel, gear selector, pedals and driver's seat bolster. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Seatbelts** pull out fully, retract and latch, with no fraying. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Air con** blows cold within a minute or two, without a musty smell; heater gets hot. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Electrics.** Screen, Bluetooth, reversing camera, windows and mirrors. Count the keys. (Negotiate) ### Test Drive - [ ] **CVT automatic.** Smooth, steady pull with no judder, surging, slipping or loud whine. A fault here is an expensive repair; ask when its fluid was changed. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Manual.** In 4th at 50 km/h, floor it: if revs rise faster than speed, the clutch is slipping. Gears go in without crunching. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Engine.** Pulls cleanly with no stutter, hesitation or smoke, including up a hill. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Brakes.** Firm pedal; stops straight with no pulling, pulsing or grinding. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Steering and suspension.** Drives straight; no knocks over bumps. A hum that grows with speed is often a wheel bearing. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Afterwards,** check for new drips, a steady temperature gauge and no hot smells. (Negotiate) ### Documentation - [ ] **Seller's ID** matches the rego papers, and the VIN matches on the papers and VIN plate. - [ ] **Service history.** Logbook stamped on time, with receipts. Ask when the CVT fluid was last changed, if ever. (Negotiate) - [ ] **CVT repairs.** Ask whether the gearbox has been repaired or replaced, and get the paperwork. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Fleet or rental records.** Ex-fleet cars are often well maintained; ask for the log. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Modifications in writing.** Tunes, lowering and exhausts, with engineering sign-off where your state requires it. - [ ] **Rego and roadworthy.** Rego checked online; roadworthy supplied if your state requires one on sale. (Negotiate) ## Stay Safe Never go under a car held up only by a jack, and never open the radiator or coolant cap on a hot engine. Keep hands, hair and loose clothing clear of fans and belts when the engine is running, and do checks under the bonnet with it switched off where you can. On the test drive, hold a current licence, confirm the car is registered and insured, obey road rules, and only brake hard when the road behind is clear. Meet in a safe, public-facing place, take someone with you, and don't carry large amounts of cash to a viewing. ## Disclaimer Shufti is not affiliated with or endorsed by Nissan; Nissan and Pulsar are trademarks of Nissan Motor Co., Ltd. Figures are counts from Shufti's analysis of official records and published reports, not a statement that any particular vehicle is affected. This checklist is general information only and is not professional, mechanical, legal or financial advice. It covers common checks, not every possible fault, and a car can pass every item here and still have problems. It is not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection by a qualified mechanic, which is worth considering before you buy, especially if anything tagged Safety critical turns up. Repair costs vary widely; get your own quotes. Roadworthy, registration and transfer rules differ by state, so check with your state road authority. Private sales generally don't come with the consumer guarantees that apply when you buy from a dealer. You use this checklist at your own risk and, to the extent permitted by law, Shufti accepts no liability for any loss, damage or injury arising from its use. ## Buying a Used Nissan Pulsar: Questions Answered ### Is a used Nissan Pulsar reliable? It depends more on the particular car than the badge: how it was driven, loaded and serviced. Work through the commonly reported problems above, read the service history for servicing done on time, and run a PPSR check. ### Which Nissan Pulsar years should I avoid? No Nissan Pulsar year is one to avoid outright. Which problems a particular car has depends on its generation, its engine and how it was used, so judge the one in front of you rather than the year alone, starting with its recalls and reported faults (Shufti looks these up from the listing). This checklist covers the B17 sedan (2013–2017) and C12 hatch (2013–2017) Nissan Pulsar. Problems reported across them include CVT automatic judder or failure, timing chain wear, stalling or power loss at low speed and worn front ball joints. ### How many kilometres is too many for a used Nissan Pulsar? Kilometres matter less than how the car was driven and serviced. A high-kilometre car with a full service history can be a better buy than a low-kilometre one that's missed services or spent years on short trips. Check the history for regular oil changes, and find out whether any timing belt replacement is due, as it's a costly job. ### Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a used Nissan Pulsar? It's worth it if you can. A mechanic can spot hidden crash repairs and gearbox problems that are easy to miss on a short test drive. Most buyers don't book one, though, so whatever you decide, check the car thoroughly yourself with this checklist first. See Is a pre-purchase inspection worth it? (https://shufti.com.au/guides/is-a-pre-purchase-inspection-worth-it) ### How do I check a used Nissan Pulsar for money owing or a write-off? Run a PPSR check with the car's VIN. It shows whether there's finance owing and whether the car has been reported stolen or written off, and costs $2. Run it on the day you pay. See What a PPSR check covers and what it doesn't (https://shufti.com.au/guides/what-is-a-ppsr-check) --- Shufti is an Australian used car inspection app for iPhone and Android that tailors the inspection to the exact car you're looking at. It is not affiliated with Shufti Pro, the identity verification (KYC) company. From the listing link, it builds every check around that car's make, model and year, odometer reading and the seller's description. It runs PPSR and government recall checks, crosschecks a database of more than 3 million recalls and owner complaints, flags problems from your photos and audio, plans a test drive, produces a shareable report with repair cost estimates, and coaches you through the negotiation. A check costs $24.99, or $49.99 for three, including PPSR and recall checks. A mechanic's pre-purchase inspection costs $250–350. Made by Frontpoint Digital Pty Ltd (ABN 23 669 870 366), Melbourne, Australia. Contact: hello@shufti.com.au. 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