# Used Subaru Impreza: Common Problems and Which Years to Buy > What to check on a used Impreza, what a problem looks like, and when to walk away. Covers: GE/GH (2007–2011), GJ/GP (2012–2016), GK/GT (2017–2023), GU (2024 on). Last updated: 2 November 2026. Web page: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-subaru-impreza-inspection-checklist. Printable PDF: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-subaru-impreza-inspection-checklist.pdf. ## Common Problems on a Used Subaru Impreza The most commonly reported problems on a used Subaru Impreza are shudder and hesitation from the CVT automatic, clutch wear on manual cars, and high oil use on the 2.0-litre engine of the GJ/GP. Also check for water leaks into the cabin on older cars. ### CVT Shudder and Hesitation Since 2012, automatic Imprezas have a continuously variable transmission (CVT) Subaru calls Lineartronic. After the warranty, owners report it shuddering, particularly when slowing down, with hesitation and occasional stalling ([AustralianCar.Reviews](https://www.australiancar.reviews/recalls-faults-subaru-gp-gj-impreza-2012-16/)). On the test drive, pull away gently, accelerate steadily and slow to a stop several times. Feel for shaking or surging, and check it doesn't take more than a moment to engage drive or reverse. Ask whether the CVT fluid has been changed and whether any software updates were done. A shuddering CVT can be costly, so have a mechanic check it. ### Clutch Wear Owners of manual GE/GH Imprezas report clutches wearing out and costing more to replace than in many small cars ([ProductReview owner reviews](https://www.productreview.com.au/listings/subaru-impreza-1-ge-gh-2008-2011)). On the drive, accelerate firmly in a higher gear: if the revs rise faster than the speed, the clutch is slipping. Feel for judder pulling away, and check the clutch biting point isn't right at the top. Ask when the clutch was last replaced. A worn clutch is a big bill, so price it into your offer. ### High Oil Use Subaru issued bulletins for high oil use on 2012–13 Imprezas with the 2.0-litre FB20 engine, and in the US replaced the short block to fix it ([AustralianCar.Reviews](https://www.australiancar.reviews/recalls-faults-subaru-gp-gj-impreza-2012-16/)). Pull the dipstick: the oil should be between the marks. Ask how often it gets topped up, and look for blue smoke from the exhaust. Ask whether any engine work was done under warranty. A car using a lot of oil needs a mechanic's check before you buy. ## Which Subaru Impreza Years to Avoid? No single Subaru Impreza year stands out as one to avoid. Newer ones usually have fewer kilometres and less wear, and the newest may still have some new-car warranty left. Whatever the year, a car's condition, service history and recalls tell you more than its build date, and Shufti looks up the reported faults and recalls for the exact car from its listing. - **GE/GH (2007–2011).** 15 to 19 years old, typically about 190,000–240,000 km. ANCAP rating: [5 stars (2008)](https://www.ancap.com.au/safety-ratings/subaru/impreza/43450a). Stability control is standard. At this age, condition and history count for more than the year: look hard for rust, worn suspension and leaks, and check whether a timing belt (if it has one) has been replaced. - **GJ/GP (2012–2016).** 10 to 14 years old, typically about 130,000–180,000 km. ANCAP rating: [5 stars (2012)](https://www.ancap.com.au/safety-ratings/subaru/impreza/0bfb03). Stability control is standard. At this age, condition and history count for more than the year: look hard for rust, worn suspension and leaks, and check whether a timing belt (if it has one) has been replaced. - **GK/GT (2017–2023).** 3 to 9 years old, typically about 40,000–110,000 km. ANCAP rating: [5 stars (2016) until it expired in December 2023](https://www.ancap.com.au/safety-ratings/subaru/impreza/b37cd1). Stability control is standard. AEB is on some variants. Most have done enough kilometres for wear items to come due: check the service history for regular servicing, and whether tyres, brakes and the battery need replacing. Subaru's new-car warranty is 5 years with unlimited kilometres for cars sold from January 2019, so ones first sold from 2021 may still be covered. - **GU (2024 on).** Up to 2 years old, typically up to about 30,000 km. ANCAP rating: [5 stars (2024), expiring December 2031, for cars built from April 2025](https://www.ancap.com.au/safety-ratings/subaru/impreza/f51919). AEB is standard. The current model. Subaru's new-car warranty is 5 years with unlimited kilometres for cars sold from January 2019, so any may still be covered. Check how much is left and that servicing has kept it valid. Kilometres are at the Australian average of about 12,600 km a year. Well above that means harder use; well below, ask why. Warranty terms are from [Subaru's warranty page](https://www.subaru.com.au/new-vehicle-warranty), as at November 2026, for private buyers. The warranty runs from when the car was first sold or registered, which the service book shows. ## Subaru Impreza General Inspection Guide A guide to checking for Subaru Impreza problems, built on the [used car buying checklist](https://shufti.com.au/checklists/australian-used-car-inspection-checklist) for any car. It can't cover every problem reported across its years in one viewing. Tick it if it's fine. Cross it if it isn't, and note what you found so you can price it into your offer. - Safety critical: Affects how safely it drives or protects you in a crash. Best to have a mechanic check it before you buy. - Negotiate: Costs money to fix, from wear to major repairs. Get a quote and take it off the price. ### Exterior - [ ] **Rust.** Check the sills, wheel arches, door bottoms and tailgate for bubbling paint or rust. Any of these needs a close look before buying. Rust starting at the edges often spreads underneath before it shows on the surface. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Crash repair.** Sight down each panel gap and check the paint colour matches across adjoining panels and inside the door jambs. All gaps should look even. Uneven gaps or overspray on rubber seals point to earlier repair work. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Headlights.** Turn on every light and check each one works and the lens looks clear. Indicators and reverse lights should also be bright and steady. Hazy, yellowed lenses cut night-time visibility and may need polishing. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Windscreen.** Check the windscreen for chips or cracks, especially near the driver's line of sight. A small chip is cheap to repair but a crack across the glass is not. A chip can spread into a crack quickly once driven on rough roads. (Negotiate) ### Under the Bonnet - [ ] **Engine oil.** Pull the dipstick and check the oil sits between the marks and looks brown rather than black or gritty. Top it up isn't enough if it's badly overdue. Black, gritty oil suggests servicing has been skipped. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Coolant.** Check the coolant reservoir is filled to its mark and the coolant looks clean, not rusty or milky. Ask if it needs frequent topping up. Milky or rusty coolant can point to an internal engine leak, which is costly to fix. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Drive belt.** With the engine off, look at the drive belt for cracks, fraying or glazing on its surface. It should look supple, not shiny or split. A cracked belt can fail without warning and leave you stranded. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Battery.** Check the battery terminals are clean and free of white powder, and look for a date sticker on the case. A clean, secure battery is what you want to see. A battery over about four years old may need replacing soon. (Negotiate) ### Underbody and Wheels - [ ] **Tyre tread.** Check tread depth on all four tyres is above the wear bars and wears evenly across each one. Uneven tyres can also tell you about the car's alignment. Wear on one edge only points to worn suspension or poor alignment. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Suspension.** Bounce each corner of the car firmly and check it settles quickly without continuing to bounce. Also look for oily residue around the shock absorbers. A corner that keeps bouncing after you push down means a worn shock absorber. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Brake discs.** Look at the visible edge of each brake disc through the wheel spokes for deep grooves or a raised outer lip. All four should look smooth and even. A heavily grooved disc or raised lip means it is due for replacement. (Safety critical) - [ ] **AWD system.** On a gravel or wet section, turn at low speed and listen for grinding or feel for binding through the drivetrain. It should turn smoothly with no resistance. Judder or binding in tight turns points to a fault in the all-wheel drive system. (Negotiate) ### Interior and Electrics - [ ] **Warning lights.** Turn the key to "on" without starting and check every dash light comes on, then goes out once the engine is running. None should stay lit at idle. An airbag, brake or engine light that stays lit needs an explanation. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Seatbelts.** Pull each seatbelt out fully and let it retract, then click it into the buckle. It should move smoothly with no fraying or stiffness. A belt that doesn't retract smoothly may not hold you firmly in a crash. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Boot.** Check the spare wheel and jack are present, then lift the boot liner to check underneath for water or rust. It should be dry and free of corrosion. A damp smell under the boot liner often means a rear seal is leaking. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Air con.** Run the air con for a minute or two and check it blows cold air without a musty smell. It should cool down quickly and stay consistent. A musty smell often means the cabin filter is overdue or mould has built up. (Negotiate) ### Test Drive - [ ] **Manual clutch.** Manual: in a higher gear at moderate speed, floor the accelerator briefly and feel if the revs rise faster than the car's road speed. They should rise together. A clutch that slips under load will need replacing soon, which is a big cost. (Negotiate) - [ ] **CVT gearbox.** CVT: pull away gently from a stop and accelerate hard up an incline, feeling for shuddering or a delay before power comes on. Response should feel steady throughout. Shudder or hesitation under load points to a CVT problem that needs attention soon. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Brakes.** Brake firmly from speed on an empty road and check the car stops straight with no pulling, pulsing or grinding. The pedal should feel firm throughout. A grinding noise means the pads have worn down to metal. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Steering.** Check the car tracks straight with no wandering, and the steering feels consistent at all speeds without going heavy or light suddenly. It should feel the same every time. Heavy or inconsistent steering points to a power steering fault. (Negotiate) ### Documentation - [ ] **Service history.** Look through the logbook for stamps made on time with matching receipts. There should be no long unexplained gaps between services. Missing stamps or gaps in servicing are worth negotiating the price down for. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Roadworthy certificate.** Check the registration status online and confirm a current roadworthy certificate is supplied if your state requires one for a private sale. It should be valid and recent. An unregistered car or missing certificate can mean extra cost before you can drive it home. - [ ] **VIN check.** Find the VIN plate in the engine bay and check it matches the VIN shown on the registration papers. The numbers should line up exactly. A mismatch can mean the car's identity or history has been altered. - [ ] **Seller's ID.** Check the seller's photo ID matches the name on the rego papers before you hand over any money. It should match exactly with no excuses offered. Any mismatch needs an explanation before you pay anything. ## Stay Safe Never go under a car held up only by a jack, and never open the radiator or coolant cap on a hot engine. Keep hands, hair and loose clothing clear of fans and belts when the engine is running, and do checks under the bonnet with it switched off where you can. On the test drive, hold a current licence, confirm the car is registered and insured, obey road rules, and only brake hard when the road behind is clear. Meet in a safe, public-facing place, take someone with you, and don't carry large amounts of cash to a viewing. ## Disclaimer Shufti is not affiliated with or endorsed by Subaru; Subaru and Impreza are trademarks of Subaru Corporation. Figures are counts from Shufti's analysis of official records and published reports, not a statement that any particular vehicle is affected. This checklist is general information only and is not professional, mechanical, legal or financial advice. It covers common checks, not every possible fault, and a car can pass every item here and still have problems. It is not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection by a qualified mechanic, which is worth considering before you buy, especially if anything tagged Safety critical turns up. Repair costs vary widely; get your own quotes. Roadworthy, registration and transfer rules differ by state, so check with your state road authority. Private sales generally don't come with the consumer guarantees that apply when you buy from a dealer. You use this checklist at your own risk and, to the extent permitted by law, Shufti accepts no liability for any loss, damage or injury arising from its use. ## Buying a Used Subaru Impreza: Questions Answered ### Is a used Subaru Impreza reliable? It depends more on the particular car than the badge: how it was driven, loaded and serviced. Work through the commonly reported problems above, read the service history for servicing done on time, and run a PPSR check. ### Which Subaru Impreza years should I avoid? No single Subaru Impreza year stands out as one to avoid. Newer ones usually have fewer kilometres and less wear, and the newest may still have some new-car warranty left. Whatever the year, a car's condition, service history and recalls tell you more than its build date, and Shufti looks up the reported faults and recalls for the exact car from its listing. This checklist covers the GE/GH (2007–2011), GJ/GP (2012–2016), GK/GT (2017–2023) and GU (2024 on) Subaru Impreza. Problems reported across them include CVT shudder, clutch wear and oil use. ### How many kilometres is too many for a used Subaru Impreza? Kilometres matter less than how the car was driven and serviced. A high-kilometre car with a full service history can be a better buy than a low-kilometre one that's missed services or spent years on short trips. Check the history for regular oil changes, and find out whether any timing belt replacement is due, as it's a costly job. ### Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a used Subaru Impreza? It's most worth it on a car where a hidden fault could be costly. Hidden crash repairs and gearbox problems are easy to miss on a short test drive, so check panel gaps and paint closely and drive it long enough to feel every gear change. Either way, start by checking the car yourself with this checklist, so you know what to look for and whether it's worth paying a mechanic to see. See Pre-purchase car inspection: what it checks and costs (https://shufti.com.au/guides/used-car-inspection-options) ### How do I check a used Subaru Impreza for money owing or a write-off? Run a PPSR check with the car's VIN on ppsr.gov.au (https://www.ppsr.gov.au/). It shows whether there's finance owing and whether the car has been reported stolen or written off. Run it on the day you pay. See What a PPSR check covers and what it doesn't (https://shufti.com.au/guides/what-is-a-ppsr-check) ### How do I check recalls on a used Subaru Impreza? Search the government's Vehicle Recalls site for the Subaru Impreza (https://www.vehiclerecalls.gov.au/recalls/browse-all-recalls?search=Subaru%20Impreza). Each notice says which models and build dates it covers and what the fault is. A recall on record doesn't tell you whether the work was done on a particular car, so ask the seller for proof, or ask a Subaru dealer to check the VIN. --- Shufti is an Australian used car inspection app for iPhone and Android that tailors the inspection to the exact car you're looking at. It is not affiliated with Shufti Pro, the identity verification (KYC) company. From the listing link, it builds every check around that car's make, model and year, odometer reading and the seller's description. It runs PPSR and government recall checks, crosschecks a database of more than 3 million recalls and owner complaints, flags problems from your photos and audio, plans a test drive, produces a shareable report with repair cost estimates, and coaches you through the negotiation. A Tailored check costs $24.99, or $49.99 for three, including PPSR and recall checks. A mechanic's pre-purchase inspection costs $250–350. To start, Shufti's General inspection guide is free: pick the car's make and model, and it takes you through the checks that matter for that model, on your phone. There's a guide for popular models, and one for every type of car. Made by Frontpoint Digital Pty Ltd (ABN 23 669 870 366), Melbourne, Australia. Contact: hello@shufti.com.au. Download: [App Store](https://apps.apple.com/au/app/shufti-used-car-inspection/id6795718336?pt=129235165&ct=Website%20guide&mt=8), [Google Play](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=au.shufti.shufti_app&referrer=utm_source%3Dshufti.com.au%26utm_medium%3Dwebsite%26utm_campaign%3DWebsite%2520guide%26utm_content%3Dllms%26utm_term%3D%252Fllms.txt).