# What to Look For When Buying a Used Subaru Outback > What to check on a used Outback, what a problem looks like, and when to walk away. Covers: BR (2009–2014), BS (2015–2020), BT (2021–2025), BU (2026 on). Last updated: 8 October 2026. Web page: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-subaru-outback-inspection-checklist. Printable PDF: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-subaru-outback-inspection-checklist.pdf. ## Common Problems on a Used Subaru Outback The most commonly reported problems on a used Subaru Outback are head gasket leaks and oil use on some engines, oil leaks low on the sides of the engine, and CVT automatic judder. Mismatched tyres strain the all-wheel drive, and a windscreen swap can upset the EyeSight driver-assist cameras. ### Head Gasket Leaks The head gasket seals the joins between the main block of the engine and its heads. On some Outback engines it's known to weep, leaking oil or coolant, and a bad leak lets coolant and combustion gas mix, which can overheat the engine. With the engine cold, check the coolant is at the mark and clean. Coolant loss, bubbles in the coolant tank, a sweet smell after the drive or a rising temperature gauge all point to a head gasket leak. Look low on the sides of the engine for oil or coolant seeping out. Ask whether the head gaskets have ever been replaced, with receipts. It's a big job, so price it in if there's a leak, and walk away from a car that overheats. ### Oil Use Some engines in the Outback are known to burn oil between services. A little is normal, but an engine that needs regular top-ups can run low without warning, and running low on oil damages an engine fast. Pull the dipstick: the level should sit between the marks, and the oil should be brown rather than black. Ask the seller how often they top it up, and watch the exhaust at start-up and when you accelerate for blue-grey smoke. Check the service history for regular oil changes, as skipped services make it worse. Heavy oil use can mean worn engine internals, so if the seller is topping it up between services, have a mechanic check it before you buy. ### Oil Leaks Low on the Sides of the Engine An Outback's engine lies flat, with its cylinders on either side, so oil leaks from the heads and seals collect low on both sides of the engine rather than on top. They're easy to miss if you only look from above. With a torch, look low on both sides of the engine and underneath for wet oil, drips and stains where the car is normally parked. A freshly degreased engine on an older car can be hiding a leak. Small weeps are common and cheap to monitor, but steady leaks need fixing, so ask a mechanic for a price and take it off your offer. ### CVT Automatic Problems Many Outbacks use a CVT automatic, which uses a belt between two pulleys instead of fixed gears. A worn CVT can judder, surge or whine, and the fluid needs changing on schedule, which owners often skip. On the test drive, accelerate gently from a stop and then firmly up a hill. Feel for a shudder as you pull away, revs rising without the car speeding up to match, surging at steady speeds, and listen for a whine that grows with speed. Any warning light or the car going into a limp mode is a bad sign. Ask when the CVT fluid was last changed and whether the gearbox has ever been repaired or replaced, with receipts. A CVT replacement is one of the most expensive repairs on the car, so if it shows any of these signs, walk away or have a specialist check it. ### Windscreen and Driver-Assist Cameras Many Outbacks have twin EyeSight cameras behind the rear-view mirror for the driver-assist features. A replacement windscreen has to suit the cameras, and they have to be set up again afterwards, so a new windscreen costs noticeably more than a plain one. Check the windscreen for chips and cracks, especially in front of the cameras, and make sure the driver-assist system shows no fault message. A fault after a windscreen swap can mean the cameras weren't set up properly. Small chips can often be repaired cheaply, but a crack means a new windscreen, so price it in. If the windscreen has been replaced, ask whether the cameras were set up again afterwards. ## Which Subaru Outback Years to Avoid? No Subaru Outback year is one to avoid outright. Which problems a particular car has depends on its generation, its engine and how it was used, so judge the one in front of you rather than the year alone, starting with its recalls and reported faults (Shufti looks these up from the listing). - **BR (2009–2014).** Every one is now over 10 years old, so condition and history count for more than the year: look hard for rust, worn suspension and leaks, and check whether a timing belt (if it has one) has been replaced. - **BS (2015–2020).** Most have done enough kilometres for wear items to come due: check the service history for regular servicing, and whether tyres, brakes and the battery need replacing. - **BT (2021–2025).** Most have done enough kilometres for wear items to come due: check the service history for regular servicing, and whether tyres, brakes and the battery need replacing. - **BU (2026 on).** The current model. Check how much of the new-car warranty is left and that servicing has kept it valid. ## Subaru Outback Inspection Checklist Tick it if it's fine. Cross it if it isn't, and note what you found so you can price it into your offer. - Safety critical: Affects how safely it drives or protects you in a crash. Best to have a mechanic check it before you buy. - Negotiate: Costs money to fix, from wear to major repairs. Get a quote and take it off the price. ### Before You Go - [ ] **Get the VIN and rego** before you travel. A seller who won't share them is a red flag on its own. - [ ] **Know what you're looking at:** four-cylinder, six-cylinder, turbo (XT) or diesel; manual or CVT automatic. Their checks below are marked. - [ ] **Ask how it was used:** dirt roads, snow trips, towing a caravan or boat, or city only? - [ ] **Ask for the engine to be cold,** go in daylight, and bring a torch, paper towel and a friend. ### Exterior - [ ] **Panels and paint.** Uneven gaps, mismatched colour or overspray on seals and trim mean crash repair. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Hail and dents.** Look along the roof, bonnet and tailgate at a low angle to the light. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Dirt-road wear.** Stone-chipped lower doors, scraped bumpers and sills, and roof-rack marks. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Rust** on older cars: rear wheel arches, sills and the bottom of the tailgate. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Lights, glass and cameras.** All lights work; windscreen free of chips. The twin cameras behind the mirror (EyeSight) make windscreens costly to replace. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Doors and tailgate** open, shut and lock cleanly; a power tailgate (if fitted) runs smoothly. (Negotiate) - [ ] **VIN plate** (in a door frame or under the bonnet) is there, untouched, and matches the papers. ### Under the Bonnet - [ ] **Engine oil** between the dipstick marks, brown not black. Ask how often it's topped up between services. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Coolant** at the mark and a clean colour. Coolant loss, bubbles in the tank or a sweet smell can point to a head gasket leak. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Brake fluid** (small tank at the back of the engine bay) is clear to light amber, not dark. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Belts, hoses and battery.** No cracked belts or swollen hoses; clean battery terminals and a date sticker. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Leaks.** Look low on both sides of the engine, where oil leaks collect on this engine layout. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Diesel: oil level** not above the top mark, and not smelling of diesel. A rising level usually comes from short trips interrupting the exhaust filter's self-clean. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Cold start.** Starts easily and settles to a smooth idle. A knock or tapping that fades as it warms, or smoke, needs a mechanic. (Negotiate) ### Underbody and Wheels - [ ] **Four matching tyres.** Same brand, size and similar wear, under ~6 years old. Mismatched tyres strain the all-wheel-drive system. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Drive parts.** No oil leaking from the rear axle; no split rubber boots behind the wheels (grease sprayed around). (Negotiate) - [ ] **Rust and crash repairs.** Rust on the floor or around the suspension; bent metal, fresh welds or new black coating in one spot. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Towbar.** A worn tow ball means lots of towing; check the wiring plug works. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Suspension.** Push down on each corner: it should bounce back once and settle. Oily shock absorbers leak. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Brakes.** Deep grooves or a raised edge on the discs mean they're due. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Exhaust.** Heavy rust, holes or loose heat shields that rattle. Diesel: heavy soot at the tailpipe. (Negotiate) ### Interior and Electrics - [ ] **Warning lights.** Key to "on": every dash light comes on, then goes out once running. An airbag, brake, engine or AWD warning that stays on needs explaining. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Driver assists (EyeSight)** show no fault message. A fault after a windscreen swap can mean the cameras weren't set up properly. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Wear matches the kilometres.** Steering wheel, pedals, driver's seat and cargo area. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Seatbelts** pull out fully, retract and latch, with no fraying. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Air con** blows cold within a minute or two, without a musty smell. A damp headlining can mean blocked sunroof drains. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Electrics.** Screen, Bluetooth/CarPlay, reversing camera, windows and sunroof. Count the keys. (Negotiate) ### Test Drive - [ ] **CVT automatic.** Smooth, steady pull with no judder, surging, slipping or loud whine. Ask when its fluid was changed. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Manual.** In 4th at 50 km/h, floor it: if revs rise faster than speed, the clutch is slipping. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Engine.** Pulls smoothly with no stutter or smoke. Diesel: ask how often the exhaust filter light has come on. (Negotiate) - [ ] **All-wheel drive.** In a car park, drive slowly on full lock both ways: no clunking, juddering or binding. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Brakes.** Firm pedal; stops straight with no pulling, pulsing or grinding. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Noises.** Knocks over bumps; a hum that grows with speed (wheel bearing). Turbo: no loud whistle or smoke. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Afterwards,** check for new drips, a steady temperature gauge and no sweet coolant smell. (Negotiate) ### Documentation - [ ] **Seller's ID** matches the rego papers, and the VIN matches on the papers and VIN plate. - [ ] **Service history.** Logbook stamped on time, with receipts. Ask when the CVT fluid was last changed, if ever. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Engine and gearbox repairs.** Ask about any head gasket, oil-use or CVT work, and get the paperwork. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Timing belt.** Some older Outback engines use one. Ask when it was last replaced. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Warranty.** A newer Outback may still be under Subaru's new-car warranty. Check the start date and that servicing kept it valid. - [ ] **Rego and roadworthy.** Rego checked online; roadworthy supplied if your state requires one on sale. (Negotiate) ## Stay Safe Never go under a car held up only by a jack, and never open the radiator or coolant cap on a hot engine. Keep hands, hair and loose clothing clear of fans and belts when the engine is running, and do checks under the bonnet with it switched off where you can. On the test drive, hold a current licence, confirm the car is registered and insured, obey road rules, and only brake hard when the road behind is clear. Meet in a safe, public-facing place, take someone with you, and don't carry large amounts of cash to a viewing. ## Disclaimer Shufti is not affiliated with or endorsed by Subaru; Subaru and Outback are trademarks of Subaru Corporation. Figures are counts from Shufti's analysis of official records and published reports, not a statement that any particular vehicle is affected. This checklist is general information only and is not professional, mechanical, legal or financial advice. It covers common checks, not every possible fault, and a car can pass every item here and still have problems. It is not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection by a qualified mechanic, which is worth considering before you buy, especially if anything tagged Safety critical turns up. Repair costs vary widely; get your own quotes. Roadworthy, registration and transfer rules differ by state, so check with your state road authority. Private sales generally don't come with the consumer guarantees that apply when you buy from a dealer. You use this checklist at your own risk and, to the extent permitted by law, Shufti accepts no liability for any loss, damage or injury arising from its use. ## Buying a Used Subaru Outback: Questions Answered ### Is a used Subaru Outback reliable? It depends more on the particular car than the badge: how it was driven, loaded and serviced. Work through the commonly reported problems above, read the service history for servicing done on time, and run a PPSR check. ### Which Subaru Outback years should I avoid? No Subaru Outback year is one to avoid outright. Which problems a particular car has depends on its generation, its engine and how it was used, so judge the one in front of you rather than the year alone, starting with its recalls and reported faults (Shufti looks these up from the listing). This checklist covers the BR (2009–2014), BS (2015–2020), BT (2021–2025) and BU (2026 on) Subaru Outback. Problems reported across them include head gasket leaks, oil use, oil leaks low on the sides of the engine and CVT automatic judder. ### How many kilometres is too many for a used Subaru Outback? Kilometres matter less than how the car was driven and serviced. A high-kilometre SUV with a full service history can be a better buy than a low-kilometre one that's missed services, done short trips or been used for rideshare. Check the history for regular servicing, and on a hybrid ask for a battery health check. ### Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a used Subaru Outback? It's worth it if you can. All-wheel-drive and hybrid systems can hide faults that only a mechanic's tools will show. Most buyers don't book one, though, so whatever you decide, check the car thoroughly yourself with this checklist first. See Is a pre-purchase inspection worth it? (https://shufti.com.au/guides/is-a-pre-purchase-inspection-worth-it) ### How do I check a used Subaru Outback for money owing or a write-off? Run a PPSR check with the car's VIN. It shows whether there's finance owing and whether the car has been reported stolen or written off, and costs $2. Run it on the day you pay. See What a PPSR check covers and what it doesn't (https://shufti.com.au/guides/what-is-a-ppsr-check) --- Shufti is an Australian used car inspection app for iPhone and Android that tailors the inspection to the exact car you're looking at. It is not affiliated with Shufti Pro, the identity verification (KYC) company. From the listing link, it builds every check around that car's make, model and year, odometer reading and the seller's description. It runs PPSR and government recall checks, crosschecks a database of more than 3 million recalls and owner complaints, flags problems from your photos and audio, plans a test drive, produces a shareable report with repair cost estimates, and coaches you through the negotiation. A check costs $24.99, or $49.99 for three, including PPSR and recall checks. A mechanic's pre-purchase inspection costs $250–350. Made by Frontpoint Digital Pty Ltd (ABN 23 669 870 366), Melbourne, Australia. Contact: hello@shufti.com.au. Download: [App Store](https://apps.apple.com/au/app/shufti-used-car-inspection/id6795718336?pt=129235165&ct=Website%20guide&mt=8), [Google Play](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=au.shufti.shufti_app&referrer=utm_source%3Dshufti.com.au%26utm_medium%3Dwebsite%26utm_campaign%3DWebsite%2520guide%26utm_content%3Dllms).