# Used Subaru WRX: Common Problems and Which Years to Buy > What to check on a used WRX, what a problem looks like, and when to walk away. Covers: Impreza WRX (GE/GH) (2007–2014), VA (2014–2021), VB (2022 on). Last updated: 2 November 2026. Web page: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-subaru-wrx-inspection-checklist. Printable PDF: https://shufti.com.au/checklists/used-subaru-wrx-inspection-checklist.pdf. ## Common Problems on a Used Subaru WRX The most commonly reported problems on a used Subaru WRX are piston and bearing damage from engine knock, oil leaks and blockages in the turbo's oil feed, and clutch and flywheel wear. Modified and hard-driven cars are the biggest risk, so check for both. ### Piston and Bearing Damage From Engine Knock On the 2.5-litre engines of the older Impreza WRX, the first piston ringland can crack from detonation (knock), and hard use and tuning raise the risk ([AustralianCar.Reviews](https://www.australiancar.reviews/recalls-faults-subaru-gr-gv-impreza-wrx-2007-13/)). Start the engine from cold and listen for knocking or tapping. Look for blue or white smoke on start-up, and on the drive feel for misfires or a lack of power. Ask whether the car has been tuned. A damaged engine needs a rebuild. Have a mechanic do a compression test on any WRX you're serious about, especially one that's been modified. ### Turbo Oil Feed Faults The oil feed line and filter that supply the WRX's turbo can clog or leak. Starved of oil, the turbo can fail. With the bonnet open, look around the turbo and its oil lines for wet oil. On the drive, accelerate firmly: listen for a whine or whistle, and watch for smoke or a loss of boost. Ask whether the feed line or banjo filter have been replaced, with receipts. A failing turbo is costly, so price it in or have it checked. ### Clutch and Flywheel Wear WRX clutches work hard, and owners of 2015 and 2016 models in particular have complained of clutch problems ([ReDriven](https://redriven.com/reviews/subaru/wrx/used-subaru-wrx-va-review/)). On the drive, accelerate firmly in a higher gear: if the revs rise faster than the speed, the clutch is slipping. Feel for judder pulling away and listen for a rattle at idle that stops when you press the clutch. Ask when the clutch was last replaced. A worn clutch and flywheel is a big bill, so price it into your offer. ## Which Subaru WRX Years to Avoid? No single Subaru WRX year stands out as one to avoid. Newer ones usually have fewer kilometres and less wear, and the newest may still have some new-car warranty left. Whatever the year, a car's condition, service history and recalls tell you more than its build date, and Shufti looks up the reported faults and recalls for the exact car from its listing. - **Impreza WRX (GE/GH) (2007–2014).** 12 to 19 years old, typically about 150,000–240,000 km. At this age, condition and history count for more than the year: look hard for rust, worn suspension and leaks, and check whether a timing belt (if it has one) has been replaced. - **VA (2014–2021).** 5 to 12 years old, typically about 60,000–150,000 km. ANCAP rating: [5 stars (2014)](https://www.ancap.com.au/safety-ratings/subaru/wrx/7f7c56). Stability control is standard. Most have done enough kilometres for wear items to come due: check the service history for regular servicing, and whether tyres, brakes and the battery need replacing. Subaru's new-car warranty is 5 years with unlimited kilometres for cars sold from January 2019, so ones first sold from 2021 may still be covered. - **VB (2022 on).** Up to 4 years old, typically up to about 50,000 km. The current model. Subaru's new-car warranty is 5 years with unlimited kilometres for cars sold from January 2019, so any may still be covered. Check how much is left and that servicing has kept it valid. Kilometres are at the Australian average of about 12,600 km a year. Well above that means harder use; well below, ask why. Warranty terms are from [Subaru's warranty page](https://www.subaru.com.au/new-vehicle-warranty), as at November 2026, for private buyers. The warranty runs from when the car was first sold or registered, which the service book shows. ## Subaru WRX General Inspection Guide A guide to checking for Subaru WRX problems, built on the [used car buying checklist](https://shufti.com.au/checklists/australian-used-car-inspection-checklist) for any car. It can't cover every problem reported across its years in one viewing. Tick it if it's fine. Cross it if it isn't, and note what you found so you can price it into your offer. - Safety critical: Affects how safely it drives or protects you in a crash. Best to have a mechanic check it before you buy. - Negotiate: Costs money to fix, from wear to major repairs. Get a quote and take it off the price. ### Exterior - [ ] **Panel gaps.** Check panel gaps, paint colour and trim seals for unevenness or overspray that would point to crash repair. Fast road cars often carry a hidden repaired scrape. Mismatched colour in a door jamb is an easy tell. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Bonnet scoop.** Look at the bonnet scoop and surrounding paint for stone chips, cracking or fading from heat. A badly faded or cracked scoop suggests a hard life or poor repair. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Wheels.** Check all four wheels for kerbing, cracks or bends, especially if lowered or fitted with aftermarket rims. A bent rim can cause a vibration that's hard to balance out. (Negotiate) ### Under the Bonnet - [ ] **Engine oil.** Pull the dipstick and check the oil sits between the marks and looks brown, not black or gritty. Turbocharged engines are hard on oil and need frequent, correct-grade changes. A burnt smell on the dipstick can mean the turbo is overheating the oil. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Coolant.** Check the coolant reservoir is at the mark and the coolant looks clean, not rusty, oily or milky. Oily or milky coolant can point to internal engine damage. Frequent top-ups between services are a bad sign. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Turbo boost hoses.** Look over the rubber boost hoses near the turbo for cracking, perishing or loose clamps. A split hose causes a sudden loss of power under acceleration. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Turbo oil feed leaks.** Look over the engine for wet patches, especially around the turbo oil lines and rocker covers. A fresh leak often shows as a dark wet patch below the turbo. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Cold start noise.** Ask to start the car from cold and listen for a knocking or rattling that fades as revs rise. A persistent knock from the bottom of the engine can mean serious internal wear. A deep knock under load later on the drive is a worse sign than one at idle. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Battery condition.** Check the battery terminals for corrosion and ask when the battery was last replaced. A car left sitting with electronics active can drain a battery faster than expected. (Negotiate) ### Underbody and Wheels - [ ] **Structural rust.** Check the floor pans, sills and subframe mounts for rust, bare metal or fresh underseal hiding damage. Structural rust or a hidden repair can weaken the car in a crash. A patch of fresh black coating in one spot often hides an impact repair. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Suspension bushes.** Check suspension bushes and dampers for cracking, oily residue or play when you rock the car at each corner. Worn bushes make the car feel vague and clunky over bumps. A dull clunk over speed humps often means a worn bush or link. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Exhaust system.** Check the exhaust, especially if an aftermarket system is fitted, for rust, loose mounts or blown joints. A rattling heat shield or loose mount is cheap to fix but worth factoring in. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Tyres.** Check all four tyres for even wear above the wear bars and that all four match in brand and size for the AWD system. Mismatched tyre sizes can strain the all-wheel-drive system over time. (Negotiate) ### Interior and Electrics - [ ] **Warning lights.** Turn the key or press start without the engine running, and check every dash light comes on then goes out once running. An airbag, engine or AWD light staying on needs an explanation. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Seatbelts.** Pull each seatbelt fully out and let it retract, checking webbing for fraying and the buckle for a solid latch. A belt that doesn't retract smoothly may not hold properly in a crash. (Safety critical) - [ ] **Clutch pedal feel.** Manual: with the engine off, press the clutch pedal and check it feels firm and returns smoothly, not spongy or sticking. A sticking or heavy pedal can point to a worn clutch cable or hydraulic fault. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Infotainment screen.** Touch through every menu on the infotainment screen and check it responds without freezing, flickering or rebooting. A screen that freezes or restarts on its own points to a software or hardware fault. (Negotiate) - [ ] **EyeSight camera.** If fitted, check the EyeSight cameras behind the windscreen are undamaged and the dash shows no EyeSight fault message after startup. A cracked windscreen near the cameras can disable the whole system. A fault light here can mean an expensive recalibration is needed. (Negotiate) ### Test Drive - [ ] **Clutch engagement.** Manual: pull away from a stop a few times and feel for shuddering or slipping as the clutch engages. Judder at low speed can point to a worn clutch or flywheel. (Negotiate) - [ ] **CVT behaviour.** CVT: accelerate firmly from a stop and feel for shuddering, flaring or a droning noise as the revs climb. A shudder under load points to a failing CVT. (Negotiate) - [ ] **Brakes.** Brake firmly from speed on a quiet road and check the car stops straight without pulling, grinding or pedal fade. Any pull to one side can mean an unevenly worn brake or a stuck caliper. (Safety critical) - [ ] **AWD system behaviour.** On a tight full-lock turn at low speed, listen and feel for binding, judder or grinding from the drivetrain. Judder on tight turns at low speed can mean the all-wheel-drive system is binding. (Negotiate) ### Documentation - [ ] **Seller's ID.** Check the seller's photo ID matches the name on the rego papers, and that the VIN on the papers matches the VIN plate on the car. - [ ] **Service history.** Ask for the logbook or receipts showing regular oil changes and, for a manual, any clutch replacement history. Gaps in turbo-engine servicing often lead to bigger problems later. (Negotiate) ## Stay Safe Never go under a car held up only by a jack, and never open the radiator or coolant cap on a hot engine. Keep hands, hair and loose clothing clear of fans and belts when the engine is running, and do checks under the bonnet with it switched off where you can. On the test drive, hold a current licence, confirm the car is registered and insured, obey road rules, and only brake hard when the road behind is clear. Meet in a safe, public-facing place, take someone with you, and don't carry large amounts of cash to a viewing. ## Disclaimer Shufti is not affiliated with or endorsed by Subaru; Subaru and WRX are trademarks of Subaru Corporation. Figures are counts from Shufti's analysis of official records and published reports, not a statement that any particular vehicle is affected. This checklist is general information only and is not professional, mechanical, legal or financial advice. It covers common checks, not every possible fault, and a car can pass every item here and still have problems. It is not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection by a qualified mechanic, which is worth considering before you buy, especially if anything tagged Safety critical turns up. Repair costs vary widely; get your own quotes. Roadworthy, registration and transfer rules differ by state, so check with your state road authority. Private sales generally don't come with the consumer guarantees that apply when you buy from a dealer. You use this checklist at your own risk and, to the extent permitted by law, Shufti accepts no liability for any loss, damage or injury arising from its use. ## Buying a Used Subaru WRX: Questions Answered ### Is a used Subaru WRX reliable? It depends more on the particular car than the badge: how it was driven, loaded and serviced. Work through the commonly reported problems above, read the service history for servicing done on time, and run a PPSR check. ### Which Subaru WRX years should I avoid? No single Subaru WRX year stands out as one to avoid. Newer ones usually have fewer kilometres and less wear, and the newest may still have some new-car warranty left. Whatever the year, a car's condition, service history and recalls tell you more than its build date, and Shufti looks up the reported faults and recalls for the exact car from its listing. This checklist covers the Impreza WRX (GE/GH) (2007–2014), VA (2014–2021) and VB (2022 on) Subaru WRX. Problems reported across them include piston and bearing damage, turbo oil feed faults and clutch and flywheel wear. ### How many kilometres is too many for a used Subaru WRX? Kilometres matter less than how the car was driven and serviced. A high-kilometre car with a full service history can be a better buy than a low-kilometre one that's missed services or spent years on short trips. Check the history for regular oil changes, and find out whether any timing belt replacement is due, as it's a costly job. ### Should I get a pre-purchase inspection on a used Subaru WRX? It's most worth it on a car where a hidden fault could be costly. Hidden crash repairs and gearbox problems are easy to miss on a short test drive, so check panel gaps and paint closely and drive it long enough to feel every gear change. Either way, start by checking the car yourself with this checklist, so you know what to look for and whether it's worth paying a mechanic to see. See Pre-purchase car inspection: what it checks and costs (https://shufti.com.au/guides/used-car-inspection-options) ### How do I check a used Subaru WRX for money owing or a write-off? Run a PPSR check with the car's VIN on ppsr.gov.au (https://www.ppsr.gov.au/). It shows whether there's finance owing and whether the car has been reported stolen or written off. Run it on the day you pay. See What a PPSR check covers and what it doesn't (https://shufti.com.au/guides/what-is-a-ppsr-check) ### How do I check recalls on a used Subaru WRX? Search the government's Vehicle Recalls site for the Subaru WRX (https://www.vehiclerecalls.gov.au/recalls/browse-all-recalls?search=Subaru%20WRX). Each notice says which models and build dates it covers and what the fault is. A recall on record doesn't tell you whether the work was done on a particular car, so ask the seller for proof, or ask a Subaru dealer to check the VIN. --- Shufti is an Australian used car inspection app for iPhone and Android that tailors the inspection to the exact car you're looking at. It is not affiliated with Shufti Pro, the identity verification (KYC) company. From the listing link, it builds every check around that car's make, model and year, odometer reading and the seller's description. It runs PPSR and government recall checks, crosschecks a database of more than 3 million recalls and owner complaints, flags problems from your photos and audio, plans a test drive, produces a shareable report with repair cost estimates, and coaches you through the negotiation. A Tailored check costs $24.99, or $49.99 for three, including PPSR and recall checks. A mechanic's pre-purchase inspection costs $250–350. To start, Shufti's General inspection guide is free: pick the car's make and model, and it takes you through the checks that matter for that model, on your phone. There's a guide for popular models, and one for every type of car. Made by Frontpoint Digital Pty Ltd (ABN 23 669 870 366), Melbourne, Australia. Contact: hello@shufti.com.au. Download: [App Store](https://apps.apple.com/au/app/shufti-used-car-inspection/id6795718336?pt=129235165&ct=Website%20guide&mt=8), [Google Play](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=au.shufti.shufti_app&referrer=utm_source%3Dshufti.com.au%26utm_medium%3Dwebsite%26utm_campaign%3DWebsite%2520guide%26utm_content%3Dllms%26utm_term%3D%252Fllms.txt).