Buying guide

How to Test Drive a Used Car

Last updated 5 October 2026

Start with the engine cold, drive for at least 20 to 30 minutes on a mix of roads, and check the gearbox, brakes, steering and suspension as you go. Drive with the radio off so you can hear the car, try one firm stop when it's safe, and check for drips, smells and warning lights when you get back. Before you set off, agree with the seller who pays if there's any damage.

Before You Set Off

Ask for the engine to be cold when you arrive, and touch the bonnet before anyone starts it: if it's warm, it's been run, and cold-start problems may be hidden. Turn the key to "on" and check every dash warning light comes on, then goes out once the engine is running.

Plan a route of about half an hour that takes in suburban streets, a rough road or speed humps, a hill, and a stretch at 80 km/h or more. Bring your licence, and a friend who can listen and watch behind for smoke. Turn the radio off and leave the air conditioning off for the first part of the drive.

Test Drive Checklist

Check	What's normal	Warning signs
Cold start	Starts easily and settles to a smooth idle.	A rattle in the first few seconds, blue smoke, or white smoke that won't clear.
Automatic gearbox	Smooth, prompt changes, up and down.	Revs rising without the car speeding up, harsh or late changes, or a shudder pulling away.
Manual gearbox and clutch	Clean changes, and a clutch that bites partway up the pedal.	Grinding, a clutch that only bites near the top, or revs rising without the car speeding up on a hill.
Brakes	A firm pedal, and the car stops straight.	Pulling to one side, a pulsing pedal, grinding, or a pedal that sinks.
Steering	The car runs straight with the wheel centred.	Pulling to one side, clicking on tight turns, or a wobble at speed.
Suspension	Settles quickly after a bump.	Clunks or knocks over bumps, or a floaty, bouncing ride.
Engine under load	Pulls smoothly up a hill and when you accelerate hard.	Hesitation, jerking or smoke behind the car.
At highway speed	Quiet and steady.	A hum that grows with speed, or a vibration through the wheel or seat.
Gauges	The temperature gauge settles in the middle.	The temperature climbing, or a warning light coming on during the drive.

What to Listen For

Most mechanical problems make a noise before they fail. These are the common ones, and what they often mean. Any of them is worth a mechanic's opinion before you buy.

Noise	Often means
Knocking or tapping from the engine	Worn engine parts or low oil
A clunk over bumps	Worn suspension parts or mounts
Grinding when you brake	Brake pads worn down to the metal
Clicking on tight turns	A worn driveshaft joint (CV joint)
A hum that grows with speed	A worn wheel bearing
A whine that rises with the revs	Power steering, gearbox or differential wear
A squeal when starting or turning	A worn or loose drive belt

How Long Should a Test Drive Be?

At least 20 to 30 minutes. That's long enough for the engine and gearbox to reach their normal temperature, when some faults first show, and to cover the mix of roads and speeds above. A ten-minute loop around the block won't tell you much, and a seller who won't allow a proper drive is a warning sign.

Insurance: Who Pays If Something Goes Wrong

A registered car's compulsory third party (CTP) insurance covers injuries to people, not damage to cars or property. Whether the seller's own car insurance covers you depends on their policy: some cover any licensed driver, and some charge a higher excess for a driver who isn't listed. Ask before you drive, and agree who would pay the excess.

Dealers usually have insurance for test drives, but may ask you to sign an agreement that makes you responsible for the excess, so read it first. Don't drive an unregistered car on a public road. If you're on L or P plates, check your licence conditions allow you to drive that car.

Test Driving a Private Seller's Car

Most private sellers expect a test drive and will come along, which is normal. Meet at the address on the registration papers, in daylight, and bring a friend. Be wary of a seller who will only drive the car themselves or keeps you to a short, flat route. See buying from a private seller.

After the Drive

Leave the engine running and look underneath and under the bonnet for new drips, steam or hot smells, and check the cooling fan doesn't run constantly. Then work through the rest of the used car inspection checklist. If anything worried you on the drive, a pre-purchase inspection is the way to find out what it is before you pay.

Planning the Test Drive in Shufti

Shufti, the used car inspection app, plans a test drive route for the car you're looking at. It fits the route to the time you have, and picks the roads, speeds and surfaces, such as speed humps, rough roads and highway stretches, that best show up the faults commonly reported on that make, model and year. Then it navigates you around the route, so you can keep your attention on the car.

Questions Answered

How long should you test drive a used car?

At least 20 to 30 minutes, on a mix of roads and speeds. That gives the engine and gearbox time to warm up fully, when some faults first show.

Can you test drive a used car without insurance?

A registered car's CTP insurance covers injuries to people, but not damage to the car or anyone's property. Whether you're covered for damage depends on the seller's insurance, so ask before you drive and agree who would pay the excess. Don't drive an unregistered car on a public road.

Can I test drive a car from a private seller?

Yes. Most private sellers expect it and will come with you. Bring your licence, and treat a seller who won't let you drive the car as a reason to walk away.

Should the engine be cold for a test drive?

Yes. Many engine problems, such as rattles, smoke and hard starting, only show in the first seconds of a cold start. Ask the seller not to run the car before you arrive, and touch the bonnet to check.

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