Used Car Buying Checklist

Your checklist for buying a second hand car: what to check, what a problem looks like, and when to walk away. Print it as a used car shopping checklist for each viewing, or tick it off on your phone at the car.

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How to Inspect a Used Car: What Matters Most

The checks that matter most on any used car are a PPSR search for money owing and stolen or written-off status, signs of crash repair or flood damage, how the engine behaves from a cold start, and a test drive that covers the gearbox, brakes and steering.

Money Owing, Stolen or Written Off: The PPSR Check

A car can look perfect and still carry someone else's debt. If the seller still owes money on it, the lender can repossess it from you. The PPSR, the government's Personal Property Securities Register, shows whether there's money owing on a car, and with it whether it's been reported stolen or written off.

Get the VIN from the seller before you travel, and run your own PPSR search rather than trusting one the seller shows you. At the viewing, check that the VIN on the rego papers, the VIN plate and the number stamped on the car all match your certificate.

If the PPSR shows money owing, don't hand over any money until it's paid off and the search comes back clear. A stolen or written-off result is a reason to walk away.

Signs of Crash Repair or Flood Damage

A crash or a flood can leave damage that's hard to see and expensive to fix. A badly repaired crash can affect how the car protects you in another one, and flood water gets into the wiring, causing electrical faults that show up months later.

For crash repair, look along each side in daylight for uneven gaps between panels, colour that doesn't quite match, and paint on rubber seals or trim. Underneath, look for bent metal, fresh welds or new black coating in just one spot. For flood damage, smell for mustiness, and look for damp carpet, silt under the seats or in the seatbelt tracks, rusty seat bolts and water inside the light lenses.

A neat repair with paperwork from a reputable workshop can be fine. Signs of a hidden or poor repair, or any sign of flooding, are a reason to have a mechanic check the car or walk away.

How the Engine Behaves From Cold

Many engine faults only show in the first seconds after a cold start, before the oil has spread and the parts have warmed up. A seller who runs the car before you arrive can hide them, deliberately or not.

Ask for the engine to be cold when you arrive, and touch the bonnet first: if it's warm, it's been run. Watch and listen as it starts. It should start easily and settle to a smooth idle. A rattle in the first few seconds, blue smoke (burning oil) or white smoke that won't clear (often coolant) are all warning signs.

If the engine is already warm, ask to come back another time, or have a mechanic check it before you buy.

A Test Drive That Covers the Gearbox, Brakes and Steering

A short loop around the block won't show much. Gearbox, brake and steering problems are among the most expensive or dangerous to miss, and they often only show at higher speeds, on rough roads or under hard braking.

Drive for at least 20 minutes, on a mix of roads. With an automatic, the changes should be smooth and the revs shouldn't rise without the car speeding up; with a manual, there should be no grinding. Brake firmly once when it's safe: the car should stop straight with no pulling, pulsing or grinding. The steering should run straight, with no clicking on tight turns or wobble at speed.

Afterwards, leave the engine running and check for new drips, steam, hot smells or a fan that never stops. Anything you're unsure about is worth a mechanic's opinion before you buy.

The Checklist, Item by Item

Tick it if it's fine. Cross it if it isn't, and note what you found so you can price it into your offer.

Safety critical
Affects how safely it drives or protects you in a crash. Best to have a mechanic check it before you buy.
Negotiate
Costs money to fix, from wear to major repairs. Use it as negotiation leverage.

01

Exterior

4 checks

02

Under the Bonnet

7 checks

03

Underbody

5 checks, 2 safety critical

04

Interior

4 checks, 3 safety critical

05

Test Drive

3 checks, 1 safety critical

06

Documentation

4 checks, 1 safety critical

A typical used car

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Stay Safe

Never go under a car held up only by a jack, and never open the radiator or coolant cap on a hot engine. Keep hands, hair and loose clothing clear of fans and belts when the engine is running, and do checks under the bonnet with it switched off where you can. On the test drive, hold a current licence, confirm the car is registered and insured, obey road rules, and only brake hard when the road behind is clear. Meet in a safe, public-facing place, take someone with you, and don't carry large amounts of cash to a viewing.

Disclaimer. This checklist is general information only and is not professional, mechanical, legal or financial advice. It covers common checks, not every possible fault, and a car can pass every item here and still have problems. It is not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection by a qualified mechanic, which is worth considering before you buy, especially if anything tagged Safety critical turns up. Repair costs vary widely; get your own quotes. Roadworthy, registration and transfer rules differ by state, so check with your state road authority. Private sales generally don't come with the consumer guarantees that apply when you buy from a dealer. You use this checklist at your own risk and, to the extent permitted by law, Shufti accepts no liability for any loss, damage or injury arising from its use.

Want More Than a Checklist?

Shufti does all this:

  • Guided checks for the exact car you're inspecting
  • Crosschecks 3M+ recalls and owner complaints
  • Spots issues from your photos and audio
  • Test drive routes with turn-by-turn navigation
  • Negotiation coach with repair cost estimates
  • PPSR and government recall checks included

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Buying a Used Car: Questions Answered

How do I check a second hand car before buying?

Run a PPSR search on ppsr.gov.au for money owing and for whether it's been reported stolen or written off, check its registration, and check its recalls on the Vehicle Recalls site. Then inspect it with this checklist, starting with the engine cold, and finish with a test drive of at least 20 minutes on a mix of roads. See Vehicle checks to do before buying a used car and How to test drive a used car

What documents should I check when buying a used car?

The registration papers, the seller's photo ID, the service history and your own PPSR certificate, with the VIN matching on all of them and on the car, plus a signed receipt. In Victoria and Queensland, also the seller's roadworthy or safety certificate. See What documents to check when buying a used car

What should I check when buying from a private seller?

Check the seller as well as the car: their ID should match the registration papers, and you should meet at the address on them. A private sale doesn't come with a dealer's guarantees, so run a PPSR check, inspect the car with this checklist and pay in a way you can trace. See Buying a used car from a private seller

Do I need a roadworthy or safety certificate?

It depends on the state. In Victoria the seller must give you a roadworthy certificate less than 30 days old, and in Queensland the seller must have a current safety certificate. In the ACT and the NT an older car needs an inspection to change hands. In NSW, WA and SA you don't need one to buy a car already registered there, or in Tasmania one currently registered. Either way, a certificate isn't a check of the car's overall condition. See buying a used car in Victoria, NSW, Queensland, Western Australia, South Australia, Tasmania, the ACT or the NT

How long does a used car inspection take?

Allow about an hour: around half an hour to work through the checklist, starting with a cold engine, and a test drive of 20 to 30 minutes that takes in different speeds and road surfaces. Rushing is how problems get missed, so be wary of a seller who hurries you.

Can I have a used car inspected before buying?

Yes. A mobile mechanic's pre-purchase inspection typically costs $250–350, but you can check it yourself first: work through this checklist at the viewing, starting with a cold engine. For the car you're serious about, Shufti's Tailored check builds the inspection for that exact car, with PPSR and recall checks and repair cost estimates, for $24.99. See Pre-purchase car inspection: what it checks and costs

Is a checklist enough, or do I need a mechanic?

A checklist helps you rule out the obvious problems and spot what to ask about. For the car you're serious about, Shufti's Tailored check goes further: it tells you what to look for on that car, what's wrong and what it will cost to fix, so you know what to pay or when to walk away. See Pre-purchase car inspection: what it checks and costs

Mechanic, Checklist or Shufti?

Here's how Shufti stacks up against your other options.

A mechanic's inspection is the most thorough, but most buyers go without one. Shufti makes sure you're well informed either way.

Feature
Shufti
$24.99
per check
Mechanic Inspection
$250–350+
per booking
General Inspection Guide
Free
in the app or on paper
Guided, model-specific checks
YesYesNo
Crosschecks over 3 million recalls and owner complaints
YesNoNo
Flags possible issues from your photos and recordings
YesNoNo
Test drive route planning and navigation
YesNoNo
Written inspection report
YesYesNo
Repair cost estimates
YesYesNo
Negotiation coaching
YesNoNo
PPSR and government recall checks included
YesNoNo
Plain-English explanations, not jargon
YesYesYes
No booking or waiting required
YesNoYes

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